Working hard to provide a great atmosphere | Canberra CityNews

Working hard to provide a great atmosphere | Canberra CityNews

In today’s crazy hospitality world, new places survive only with a unique proposition backed by well-executed, reliable food and service, says dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

Enter Uptown Vibes in busy Braddon. My recommendation for lunch or dinner is to head upstairs to a table alongside the floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoying the view of the massive mature tree that proudly grows outside on Lonsdale Street. It’s a gorgeous setting. 

Wendy Johnson.

Uptown Vibes, as its name suggests, works hard to provide a great atmosphere in all its zones. That’s whether you’re there for a casual brekkie, more formal dining, a quick coffee and treat from the downstairs bakery, or a drink in the bar area. When at Uptown, shop the small but mighty retail and pantry section, with reputable brands.

We were lunching and left impressed, even though Uptown had only been open for lunch and dinner for a few days on our visit. 

First up was an amazing tuna tartare ($28) from the menu’s small share-plates section. Thumbs up to chef Leo Bueno, who heads the kitchen, applying his flair for dishes celebrating Australian and European influences. Leo hails from the former Italian restaurant and wine bar Brunello. 

The tartare was pretty on the plate, and the texture of the soft, carefully cubed fresh and flavourful fish was enhanced by ever-so-thin crispy potatoes. What a memorable dish. 

We’re all pork belly fans, and one of our party declared Uptown’s version one of the best he’d ever had. The pork was bold in flavour, not fatty and the skin super-duper crispy ($22 for three pieces). It was slow-cooked for 36 hours and stunning with tangy guava sauce and fresh, funky, fennel slaw.

The good vibes continued with the layered eggplant and zucchini caponata ($18), served with a Napolitana sauce, zippy fried capers, and tiny slices of green onion. Although flavoursome, we agreed the sauce could have been punchier.

From the menu’s large, shared-plates section, we opted for the “golden cauliflower” ($34), 100 per cent proof that vegetarian dishes can be anything but boring. The head of cauliflower is roasted until it’s dark golden in colour, which contrasts beautifully with the slices of the bright pink and green pickles placed on top. The dollop of goat’s curd adds creaminess, and the hit of smoked paprika takes the dish to the next level. 

We devoured the seasonal greens, also presented with a twist. On top of the beans, peas, beans and zucchini were loads of caramelised nuts ($16). Love thin fries? Uptown serves theirs with oregano. Dip them into a superior herb aioli ($10).

A bar menu is available all day, and Uptown Vibes offers a solid wine list, cocktails, mocktails, aperitifs, digestives and beer. We thoroughly enjoyed the 2023 Tolloy Pinot Grigio from Italy ($75 a bottle).

 

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Ian Meikle, editor