There’s a vanilla slice that “puts others to shame”, pies and Cornish pasties made the old-school way, and what might be the country’s best lamington. Start the car and map your route around these standout bakeries.
Anyone hitting the highways this Easter would be wise to plan a pit stop around one of the standout country bakeries Victoria is blessed with. Some of our best bakers work and live in regional towns.
What makes them great is their connections with local farmers and food producers, leading to sensational sourdoughs for sandwiches at your holiday house; airy pastries that show off local fruit and cultured butter; and hearty handmade pies perfect for a long drive.
DAYLESFORD AND SURROUNDS
Blumes
This historic wood-fired bakery in the tiny town of Harcourt is back open after an extensive two-year renovation by self-taught bakers David and Jodie Pillinger. Mason’s of Bendigo founders Nick and Sonia Anthony have joined the project after closing their hatted restaurant last year.
Why it’s worth your time: The bakery’s known for its 18-hour fermented sourdough bread and its dense fruit loaf, laden with dates and dried vine fruit soaked in ginger tea. But a very juicy sausage roll encased in buttery pastry is a new attraction. The wood-fired oven will fire up for the cooler months.
The must-try item: The lamington ($7.50) – possibly the best in the country – is an all-local treat, made with Du Fermier chef Annie Smithers′ raspberry jam and cocoa from Castlemaine chocolatiers Cabosse & Feve.
158 Victoria Road, Harcourt, instagram.com/blumeshistoricbakery
Geeza and Co
This stall at the weekly Castlemaine Farmers’ Market has quickly become the go-to for baked goods. You may remember Sophie Hogan’s cakes from The Blackbird, which she ran in Newstead until 2022. Her partner, Mathew Axon, is a butcher-turned-chef.
Why it’s worth your time: It’s all about the high-quality ingredients from small farmers and producers. Long Paddock “Banksia” cheese is grated over flaky croissants made with Lard Ass Butter. Hogan’s apple cake is made with local apples, drizzled with sage caramel, and covered with mascarpone and maple icing.
The must-try item: The rye sourdough doughnut ($6), fermented for 24 hours and filled with Hogan’s seasonal jam, either nectarine and orange blossom or rhubarb and ginger.
Every Wednesday, Castlemaine Farmers’ Market, Camp Reserve, Castlemaine, instagram.com/geeza.and.co
Le Peche Gourmand
Inside this heritage shopfront, a busy bakery plays backdrop to a cabinet full of well-bronzed pastries and pretty cakes, inspired by the French heritage of co-owner Marie Williams.
Why it’s worth your time: High-quality butter, flour and organic French sea salt make for perfect croissants, while the picnic baguettes are packed with French butter, Emmental cheese and finely sliced ham from Ballarat’s Salt Kitchen Charcuterie.
The must-try item: The Paris-Brest ($8) is all about the contrast of light, crisp choux and buttery praline paste. Crunchy hazelnuts and sugar pearls add extra texture.
73 Albert Street, Creswick, lepechegourmand.com.au
Two Fold
Baker Alison Wilken worked in bakeries for decades before perfecting the art of sourdough at Trentham’s famous Red Beard Bakery. Now she runs her own bakery as a market stall in Daylesford.
Why it’s worth your time: Most people come here for the bread. The Koraleigh Fruit Loaf is packed with apricots, sultanas and sun muscats grown on the Murray, while the Wimmera Grains loaf is made with a porridge of biodynamic rye, spelt, wheat, oats, lentils and barley folded through tangy, moist sourdough.
The must-try item: Sourdough crackers ($8), served at Daylesford’s ever-popular Winespeake, are naturally savoury, crisp and golden – perhaps Australia’s best cracker for cheese.
Every Sunday, Daylesford Sunday Market, twofoldbakehouse.com.au
MORNINGTON PENINSULA
Tuerong Farm
This family farm surrounded by wheat fields has become a leader in Australia’s baking community, known for its heritage grains that are hard to find elsewhere.
Why it’s worth your time: This is one of the few bakeries in Australia that bakes bread and pastries using only grain that’s grown and milled right there. Come for the sea salt and fennel palmier and leave brimming with knowledge on regenerative farming and the importance of growing local grains.
The must-try item: The Reynard sourdough ($10), made with an old French red wheat variety, has a terracotta crust, an earthy pink crumb and a lovely nutty flavour.
76 Tuerong Road, Tuerong, tuerongfarm.com.au
HIGH COUNTRY
Milawa Bread
This bakery got its start when Adam Rivett, a winemaker, got the baking bug and travelled to France to hone his skills. Back home, he started baking in a small kitchen behind Milawa Cheese, where he and his team still work today.
Why it’s worth your time: Tucked down a country lane, this bakery-cafe produces full-flavoured sourdough made with flour milled on-site. The patisserie range includes macarons, Paris-Brest, and savoury pastries folded like a wallet and filled with bechamel, mozzarella and ham. Steak mince pie is made with mirepoix and stout encased in rich butter pastry.
The must-try item: The French-style vanilla slice ($8) puts others out there to shame. The light and airy puff pastry is made with a blend of spelt and wheat flours, and sandwiches a luscious vanilla custard folded with whipped cream.
17 Milawa-Bobinawarrah Road, Milawa, milawabreadandkitchen.com.au
WESTERN VICTORIA
Dunkeld Old Bakery
This 1887 weatherboard bakery looks like a postcard and upholds baking traditions down to the smallest details, such as using Victorian butter.
Why it’s worth your time: Self-taught baker Geoff Potter does everything by hand, including rolling Lard Ass artisan butter into his golden, flaky croissants and pains au chocolat filled with Belgian Callebaut chocolate. Fat, cheesy toasties are made with naturally fermented white bread, while the front cabinet is loaded with flour-free baked goods like almond and coconut cake, and apple and cinnamon slice.
The must-try item: Danishes ($6) filled with proper egg-based French custard, topped with seasonal fruit like local peaches paired with pecans.
97 Martin Street, Dunkeld, dunkeldoldbakery.com.au
Sourdough Portland
Self-taught baker Kim Hol has become the go-to expert that other bakers around Victoria seek out, thanks to the exceptional things she’s turning out of her small bakery (formerly known as The Bakehouse) down a laneway in Portland, an old maritime town.
Why it’s worth your time: Yes, it’s a four-and-a-half hour drive from Melbourne, but that hasn’t stopped city-slickers from making the pilgrimage for Hol’s naturally leavened baked goods including sourdough bread, spelt loaves, croissants made to a four-day recipe, doughnuts and seasonal mince tarts and hot cross buns.
The must-try item: The breakfast milk bun ($7.50) sounds vanilla but is anything but. More like a round focaccia, each one carries artful toppings such as caramelised onion and brie; ham, cheese and zucchini pickle; or sopressa with hot honey.
31 Percy Street, Portland, instagram.com/sourdoughportland
That Place
Pastry chef Ashlea Allen trained at one of Paris’s leading pastry schools before perfecting her craft at the famous La Patisserie des Reves. Now, lucky Geelong gets to reap the rewards.
Why it’s worth your time: This is a haven for lovers of traditional French patisserie and viennoiserie, made with a combination of French and Victorian butter. Think crisp, flaky croissants; pains au chocolat filled with Belgian chocolate; and flaky Danish pastries. Well-spiced hot cross buns are glazed with golden syrup.
The must-try item: The beef hand pie ($12.50) is filled with beef Bourguignon of tender beef cheek slow-cooked with bay leaves and thyme, encased in buttery puff pastry in the shape of a pithivier.
110b Mount Pleasant Road, Belmont, thatplacepatisserie.com
GIPPSLAND
Salt Organics
In the far-east reaches of Gippsland, former chef Ondy Meek runs a micro-bakery that doubles as a shop for organic and biodynamic produce, ferments, dairy and more.
Why it’s worth your time: These shelves don’t look like every other bakery’s. Bread is scored in beautiful patterns, bagels are layered with triple-cream brie and smoked turkey, and bialy (Polish bread rolls) are stuffed with mashed potato, Maffra cheddar and spicy Italian sausage.
The must-try item: Meek renders her own lard to make a rich, slightly crumbly shortcrust pastry for traditional Cornish pasties ($8.50) filled with chunks of beef, swede, potato and onion. The same pastry stars in beef pies ($8.50) cradling tender beef cheek and glossy gravy.
94 Nicholson Street, Orbost, instagram.com/saltorganics
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