Despite health concerns, a new generation of flavour seekers, wellness content creators and “skinfluencers” are turning to beef fat.
Jane de Graaff
For much of the past century, animals fats such as beef dripping were a staple of Australian kitchens. Whether used for baking a Sunday roast or as shortening to make pastry, beef fat was ubiquitous in cooking for generations.
As awareness grew about the health risks of saturated fats, dripping eventually fell out of favour, and was replaced by healthier and more convenient fats such as extra virgin olive oil and other vegetable-derived oils.
Fast-food chains such as McDonald’s and Burger King made the switch in the 1990s, replacing animal fat with vegetable oils.
Now, however, gourmet grocers are stocking an increasing variety of beef tallow – a type of processed beef fat – as a new generation of flavour seekers chase the rich, buttery flavour it lends to baked and fried dishes, such as traditional British-style fish and chips.
What is it?
The terms ‘dripping’ and ‘tallow’ are often used interchangeably, but there is a subtle difference between the two. Dripping is fat that drips from beef while cooking, while tallow is more specific.
“Tallow is fat that comes from around the kidneys of ruminant eaters – cattle, sheep, deer, goat,” says Julian Czaplinski of Tassie Tallow, which specialises in grass-fed beef tallow, alongside duck fat, ghee and pig lard. Tallow can also come from the loins or include the fat from around other organs, such as caul fat.
This harder, lumpy, beef suet is rendered down and filtered for impurities. The result is white, solid at room temperature, with a shelf-life of up to 12 months. The more impurities removed, the less “beefy” the aroma, while retaining a rich, buttery flavour, and a high smoke point of about 220C.
“Those of us old enough will remember our grandparent’s dripping pot by the stove, where they’d pour all the fat to use in the next meal,” Czaplinski says.
Why do we care?
Social media is leading the new wave of interest in tallow, particularly carnivore, keto and paleo influencers drawn to its “natural” appeal and limited processing.
Some even render it themselves from suet, using it to make anything from moisturiser to body balms, tallow fudge and chocolates.
“There’s definitely been a surge in the last 12 months,” says regenerative farmer Georgina Baker, the founder of Bello Beef. “We can’t keep up with the demand.”
Both Tassie Tallow and Bello Beef make 100 per cent grass-fed beef tallow, which is reflected in the quality of the final product.
“The key to healthy tallow is there’s no grain to finish it. People are seeking trustworthy, 100 per cent grass-finished product,” Baker says.
How are we using it?
While “skinfluencers” are rubbing tallow-based products on their face and body, cooks and chefs are embracing tallow’s savoury notes and high smoke point, which are suitable for high-temperature cooking.
“It’s amazing for roast potatoes,” says Baker, who claims tallow is far superior to duck fat, while Czaplinski is a fan of searing steak or frying chicken.
Beef tallow has long been used by old-school fish-and-chip shops – such as Rosie’s Fish and Chips near Wollongong and the newly opened Fish + Chippery at Haymarket’s revamped Paddy’s Markets – to make potato chips the traditional way.
Now a new wave of cafes and food manufacturers are also adding tallow to menus and snack foods, while TikTokers are putting their own special spin on recipes such as 100-layer beef tallow potato pavé.
What’s the verdict?
While tallow has many vocal fans who love its rich flavour, crisping properties and low-fi production, any health claims are at odds with current nutritional guidelines. These advise limiting saturated fats found in animal products as they can raise bad (LDL) cholesterol and increase the risk of heart disease.
“[Tallow] should be used in moderation – like all fats – as we don’t need much added fat in the diet generally,” says dietitian Susie Burrell.
“For our health, and even with skin health, there are no clear benefits from using tallow, despite what popular trends may be suggesting.”
Jane’s super crunchy tallow roasted potatoes
With a high smoke point suitable for high-temperature roasting, tallow is perfect for making the ultimate crunchy roast potatoes with savoury flavour.
INGREDIENTS
- 1kg roasting potatoes (I use Kestrels) – washed and dried, not peeled
- 4 tbsp beef tallow (40g solid tallow)
- ½ tsp salt flakes + extra to serve
- 1 large sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves striped from the stalk
METHOD
- Cut potatoes into large chunks (roughly 4-5cm), place them in a pot of cold water and bring to a boil, then cook for 10 minutes or until just soft enough to pierce with a fork, but not cooked through.
- Drain the potatoes, tossing to rough them up – this will help create crispy edges. Allow the potatoes to steam-dry a little in the colander.
- Meanwhile, preheat your oven to 200C fan-forced (220C conventional), and place the solid tallow into a baking dish in the oven to melt.
- Once the tallow is liquid and bubbling hot, add the steam-dried potatoes to the pan (avoid moisture as it will spit when it hits the hot fat) and give them a toss to cover with the tallow. Roast, uncovered, for 30 minutes.
- Sprinkle over the rosemary and salt, give the potatoes a good toss and then roast for a further 20 minutes, or until super crunchy and golden. Serve hot, with an extra pinch of salt if desired.
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