A coffee roaster with a strong local following moves to bigger digs, and fans are flocking for the “Franga” merch. It joins a growing number of bars and eateries shaking off the suburb’s daggy old reputation.
Thirteen-year-old coffee company Commonfolk has opened a new cafe in Frankston with a genre-defining chilli scramble and a big ambition. “We want to be the best cafe in Melbourne,” says co-owner Sam Keck. “Why not?”
Given the instant buzz since opening in July, maybe he’s onto something. The 50-seat corner cafe is in an old op shop two blocks from the beach and a five-minute walk from Frankston Station. It replaces a smaller Commonfolk location in the suburb.
“We needed to be 25 per cent busier to justify the move. We are up 250 per cent,” says Keck. “Apparently this is what Frankston was waiting for.”
The spacious room has a warm look with coffee-coloured Tuscan tiles, a high communal table with stools that makes a virtue of a central structural pillar, music on vinyl and big windows that promote an indoor-outdoor feel.
Everyone’s here. “On Sunday, we had the boys who’d finished footy at one table and next to them was a group of people that had just come from church,” says Keck.
A good way to blast yourself into the Commonfolk orbit is to order a Yin Yang coffee duo ($8) featuring their Peruvian “Castle in the Sky” blend. You’ll get an espresso and a magic to experience the smooth, apricot-tinged chocolatey roast in two different ways.
Chef Kyle Noll (ex-Hatter and the Hare, Locavore Studio) is running an all-day menu that includes half-serves of many items. “We want to be approachable if you’ve got $10 in your back pocket,” says Keck. Eggs on toast start at $9, for example.
That hero chilli scramble is strewn with a Ugandan-style tumble of crisp spices with turtle beans and curry powder. “You can smell it down the street when he’s making it,” says co-owner Casey Holmes. (No, they are not selling jars.)
The dish is a nod to Zukuka Bora, a Ugandan coffee producer-partner of Commonfolk since 2014. Soft scrambled eggs are layered up with that chilli, dill-infused labne, fermented garlic and preserved lemon for a certified brunch banger.
Lamb shoulder with roasted beetroot would be at home in any quality bistro, and a well-constructed avo smash is boosted by green tahini and smashed chickpeas.
Commonfolk is tapping into Frankston pride. “I live here,” says Keck. “Frankston is one of the last affordable suburbs. People are sick of the shit it gets.”
When the cafe opened, the team made 30 branded coffee mugs with “Franga” printed on them – a nickname that can be affectionate but also derogatory. “People were lining up at 6.30am to get them. We sold out in an hour. We are part of something.”
Frankston’s affordability makes it easier to build a team too. “Our staff want to work here because they live here,” says Keck. “The Mornington Peninsula [just to the south] is a bit of a rich person’s playground. I’ll never say ‘no’ to lunch at Pt. Leo Estate or Montalto, but that’s not real life for most people.
“This is a community: you can live and work here, and it’s got one of the best beaches in Victoria. Frankston won’t be a secret for much longer.”
Open breakfast, lunch daily
43 Playne Street, Frankston, commonfolkcoffee.com.au
Five great spots in Frankston (and beyond)
Young Street Tavern
A cosy pub with draught beer, a busy roster of bands and twists on pub classics. Lasagne schnitzel, anyone? The venue is by the same folk that have Loosie’s Diner & Bar in Mornington.
101 Young Street, Frankston, youngstreettavern.com.au
Hop Shop
Swing in to buy craft beers for later, or choose from the 18 beers on tap and hang about for snacks by Bang Bang in Mordialloc. Sharing roti bread with satay sauce for dipping, Japanese-style fried chicken, and baos with your choice of filling.
26 Playne Street, Frankston, thehopshop.com.au
Moon Dog Beach Club
Gearing up for its second summer, this huge hangout on the bay is Frankston’s argument that the holidays happen right here. A bucket of prawns with cocktail sauce is $50 and there’s $49 bottomless brunching on Saturdays.
490 Nepean Highway, Frankston, moondog.com.au
Butterken Bakery
Commonfolk uses this bakery’s sourdough but you’ll need to head to the bakery to enjoy the full range of chewy, nutty German-style breads, some made with rye and spelt. A salted pretzel with butter is a must.
54 Mount Eliza Way, Mount Eliza, butterkenbakery.com.au
The Bon Vivant’s Companion
Though this cocktail and whisky bar is on the main drag, there’s a refined speakeasy feel to it. Visit to bookend a meal elsewhere or settle in for dishes including sticky short-rib with pickled vegetables and coconut crunch.
150 Main Street, Mornington, bonvivantbar.com.au
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
