Lucci honours the Cosentino siblings’ mother, Lucia, who instilled in them a love of food and hospitality.
Daniela Frangos
The latest venue by siblings Sarah, Simon, Ryan and Jonathan Cosentino (Via Porta) has opened on a quiet strip of shops on Waterdale Road in Ivanhoe. Its name honours their mother, Lucia, who instilled in them a love of food and hospitality. But it also translates to “light” in their native Italian.
The warm and welcoming eatery with its large open kitchen is inspired by the Cosentinos’ upbringing, including the homely pastas that graced the family table. The menu includes a punchy puttanesca and “nonna’s” bolognese. But there are also fresh ideas on show. Chicken schnitzel showered in parmesan comes with a sidecar of vodka-tomato sauce. Ricotta hotcakes served with maple syrup, mascarpone and blueberry compote are “like a hybrid between your standard pancake and your Japanese pancake”.
A few Via Porta favourites are also in the mix. There are fried eggs in spicy all’arrabbiata-inspired sugo; crab spaghetti with fermented chilli and lemon crumb; and doorstopper French toast, made of croissant dough that’s baked in a loaf tin then topped with poached pears, almond brittle, caramel sauce and creme anglaise.
There are also ready-made meals to take home, coffee by Code Black, and pastries delivered daily from the bakehouse, including croissants, caneles and kouign-amanns.
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