The perfect recipe for a wintry afternoon in Melbourne goes something like this: take some mulled wine, sip it by a fireplace and wait for a kind cold-weather angel to bring you a pizza. Soon after, that same gem comes by to throw another log on the fire and asks if you’d like some cheese, or maybe a tiramisu, and certainly some more wine.

All this is possible at the Hills, the easternmost outpost of the wine bar group Diggin’ in the Cellars that also counts the Moon (Collingwood), the Alps (Prahran), Clover (Richmond) and just-revamped Milton Wine (Malvern) in its stable.

When owner Lyndon Kubis opened here seven years ago, Surrey Hills was part of a wowserish dry zone and local residents were required to vote on whether liquor could be sold in venues and purchased to take away. It took 18 months for the yays to outweigh the nays and all the permissions to come through.

A few things have changed since then: the area’s archaic liquor laws were struck out in 2021 and more drinking dens have popped up. Also, the new Union Station has been built just behind the bar as part of level crossing removal works. I boarded a Belgrave train at Richmond Station and arrived within 20 minutes.

Something else has happened in recent times: mulled wine is back in fashion. The Hills manager and wine buyer Gabe Hickey has crafted a recipe that’s as warming as a coveted spot by his bar’s fireplace.

High-quality Barbera (a northern Italian red) is infused with cinnamon, star anise and orange peel and amped up with Armagnac and Triple Sec. You do lose some alcohol in the heating, so the fuzzy feelings must come from being here, enjoying gently spiced flavours and gently lovely moments. And pizza.

Chef Jennah Parsons-Ilsley ferments her dough for 48 hours before forming it into rounds and cooking them to a beautiful blistered chew. There’s always margarita and pepperoni but the rest of the pizza menu changes frequently. I lucked onto burrata and anchovy on a red base: creamy, salty, win.

Anchovy also stars on the snack menu, laid over fried bread and aioli to create a button-pushing bite. Otherwise, there are oysters, broccolini with walnut cream and simple but satisfying pickles.

The long wine list will please most; there are up to 20 by the glass, including Gabe’s own Garbe Vino.

A mug of mulled wine is as warming as a coveted spot by the bar’s fireplace.

Locals use the bar as their off-site lounge room. Solo sippers, daters, couple catch-ups and girls’ arvos all find a spot, and if you fancy a Chianti while the toddler has some chips, that’s fine, too.

Book one of two tables closest to the fireplace if you want to toast your toes while also toasting your good sense in choosing to head for the Hills.