The must-try cafes, restaurants, and bars transforming the south Sydney food scene. Plus, an exclusive first look at Fred’s After Dark in Cronulla.
If the beaches weren’t enough to inspire a day trip to the Sutherland Shire, consider its growing culinary scene. From Fred’s Providore, a Cronulla sandwich shop turned wine bar, to Mansfield Coffee, a Caringbah cafe serving small-batch specialty brews, the influx of more than a dozen new businesses over the past year are transforming the south Sydney region into a drinking and dining destination.
“We wanted to create a restaurant that gives locals a reason to stay local, and a reason for people outside the area to come and visit,” says Nathan Creary, a farmer, butcher and owner of Fred’s Providore.
Fred’s, which serves fresh focaccia sandwiches and tiramisu lattes during the day, is set to launch Fred’s After Dark on August 28. It’s exciting news for carnivores: all the meat on the menu, headlined by a one-kilogram bistecca steak, will be locally sourced, butchered and occasionally smoked at Creary’s neighbouring butcher Farmgate to Plate.
“With places like [the Feros Group’s multi-venue dining destination] Parc Pavilion, Homer, Bobbys, Pino’s Cucina and Fior opening up, there’s a really cool dining scene in the Shire, and we wanted to add to it,” says Creary.
Beyond the big names, there are exciting new ventures from independent operators such as Hazel, breathing new life into the historic Hazelhurst Arts Centre; L.A. Donuts, the second American-style doughnut outpost from social media star Frida Deguise; and the upcoming Ari’s Deli in Engadine, a sandwich shop and cafe inspired by owner Ari Kounnafis’ childhood with his Cyprus-born parents in Western Sydney.
The area has developed the kind of dining culture which welcomes diversity, says local Tony Moarbes, who opened Cronulla restaurant Eat Lebanese in 2022 following a successful pop-up.
“It was daunting at first, because no one had put the word ‘Lebanese’ on a sign in Cronulla since 2005. And it’s funny − sometimes after a meal a guest will say, ‘I didn’t think it would be this good. I wasn’t expecting that in Cronulla.’
“People don’t usually associate the Shire with great Lebanese food, but I think we’re helping to change that and showing what’s possible here.”
Newcomers join a strong foundation of established hospitality businesses including Thoroughbread Bakery in Kirrawee, Hendrix Coffee Co in Cronulla, and Alphabet St in Cronulla.
Thoroughbred owner Nick Tabet says the Shire’s growth may have accelerated over the past year, but it’s been on the up for almost a decade: “As young families seek property with more value and [greater] lifestyle, it’s helped drive the demand for better quality food offerings.”
The Good Food guide to one perfect day in the Shire
Coffee
Mansfield Coffee, Caringbah
Cousins and hospo veterans Nathan and Josiah Nicotra make a great flat white, but they also brew some of the most adventurous and award-winning coffee Australia has to offer as part of their “coffee album” collection, which ranges in price from $12-$35 per cup.
Good to know: Prefer an iced matcha? Head to Rushi in Cronulla for matcha coconut clouds, salted caramel matcha, and maple cloud sea salt matcha.
32 Mansfield Avenue, Caringbah, instagram.com/mansfieldcoffee
Breakfast
Hendrix Coffee Co, Cronulla
Order the bagel. Owner Todd Rosenfeld, a trained baker and barista, spent years refining his New York-style recipe for that “classic chew and golden crust”. The fillings are similarly special, from the “cheese burgel” stacked with Whole Beast Butchery patties, to the seasonal fruit option with whipped quark, strawberry and rhubarb preserve.
Good to know: Hendrix is also known for its ultra-cheesy toasties and Reuben Hills coffee.
1/150 Cronulla Street, Cronulla, instagram.com/hendrixcoffeeco
Morning tea
Thoroughbread Bakery, Kirrawee
You know a bakery is good when it’s this busy after 12 years of operation. Owners Nick and Emma Tabet are known for their slow-fermented sourdough, but it’s difficult to walk out without an extra treat from the pastry cabinet. Try the poached rhubarb-filled doughnut, the mini pecan pie, or go all in with a brisket roll featuring house-smoked meat, fried egg, cheese and chutney.
Good to know: The same brisket is served at Marrickville cafe Angus, also co-owned by the Tabets.
19 Monro Avenue, Kirrawee, thoroughbreadbakery.com.au
Long lunch
Bobbys, Cronulla
You really can’t beat that view. Bobby’s is a Mediterranean restaurant on South Cronulla beach, so close to the water you can smell the sunscreened swimmers. Locals Adam and Kylie Micola opened the venue in late 2023 and it’s become the go-to for long lunches with ice-cold Peronis, seafood and pasta.
Good to know: Kids in tow? Check out the Micolas’ neighbouring restaurant Pippis – it has a great playground, bay views and is BYO.
6R The Esplanade, Cronulla, bobbyscronulla.com.au
Casual lunch
Eat Lebanese, Cronulla
Owner Tony Moarbes says everything on the menu, from the hummus to the falafel, is made from scratch to ensure “the kind of Lebanese food that feels like it came straight out of a family kitchen”. His restaurant is equally suited to a quick, hearty meal as it is to a sit-down experience with Lebanese wine pairings and Arabic coffee martinis.
Good to know: Roasted cauliflower layered with tarator, zhoug, pomegranate and sumac onions is a bestseller.
98 Cronulla Street, Cronulla, eatlebanese.com.au
Afternoon snack
Flour, Caringbah South
Flour is tucked away on a quiet suburban street, but you’ll have no problem finding it – just follow the long procession of cars. The acclaimed cafe-bakery makes excellent breads, sausage rolls and sandwiches, but most people come for the large selection of seasonal pastries. Try a Danish made with fillings such as carrot cake, raspberry and pistachio, or poached apple crumble.
Good to know: Flour closes at 2pm, so you’ll have to hustle.
277 Willarong Road, Caringbah South, weareflour.com.au
For wine shopping
Smalls Cellar, Kirrawee
Tattooists Brooke Small and Sam Keane opened the Shire’s first independent natural wine shop in late 2023. “I had no idea [whether the Shire was ready], I was just hoping everyone would be as excited to buy unique wines from small producers as I am,” says Small. Locals have been stoked with the selection, which includes Australian winemakers such as Patrick Sullivan and Gentle Folk.
Good to know: Small recommends BYO-ing a bottle to her favourite Italian restaurant, Giro Osteria, in Cronulla.
142 Oak Road, Kirrawee, smallscellar.com
Happy hour
Hazel, Gymea
Book in for happy hour on the garden terrace of this historic art deco home, overlooking the beautiful (and dog-friendly) Hazelhurst grounds. Specials run from 5-6pm Friday and Saturday, and include limoncello spritzes for $15, wine from $10, and craft beer from $8.
Good to know: You can check out the exhibitions at adjoining Hazelhurst Arts Centre beforehand.
782 Kingsway, Gymea, hazelgymea.com
Dinner
Fred’s After Dark, Cronulla
When Fred’s launches its after-dark restaurant on August 28, it will take an elegant turn from lunchtime focaccia sandwiches to a high-end wine bar, using produce from owner Nathan Creary’s butcher shop and farming community to make lobster rolls, steak tartare and skewers of highly marbled wagyu. Wine is available by the glass or carafe, with a refined selection sourced from Australia and Europe.
Good to know: Can’t get enough of Fred’s tiramisu latte? Try the tiramisu martini.
109 Cronulla Street, Cronulla, instagram.com/freds.providore
One last round
Homer, Cronulla
The lo-fi cool of the Athenian wine scene arrived in Cronulla with the opening of Homer in August. It’s a 100-seat indoor-outdoor wine bar and taverna from brothers Harry and Mario Kapoulas, who own nearby cafe HAM. Order a glass of Greek-made wine or digestif while eyeing off the dessert menu, which includes a tempting galaktoboureko (milk pie).
Good to know: It’s one of the few restaurants open until 10pm, Thursday to Saturday.
3/3 Surf Road, Cronulla, homerroguetaverna.com.au
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Bianca Hrovat – Bianca is Good Food’s Sydney eating out and restaurant editor.