From wine bars to bakeries, pub meals to cocktails, here’s how to spend a delicious few days in this rapidly changing region.
The best place to kick off a culinary journey of Geelong is Pakington Street – a lively stretch of boutiques, restaurants, Victorian-era architecture and cafes tucked down cobblestone alleys. Box Office is a vast warehouse-style space serving Axil coffee and brunch that goes heavy on native Australian ingredients. Hatted restaurant Tulip runs a refined snack-forward menu, while the front bar of the historic Petrel Hotel is alive with fans of well-executed pub dishes ordering hefty chicken schnitties lathered in garlic butter.
When it comes to morning pastries, there’s That Place in Belmont for viennoiserie by French-trained pastry chef Ashlea Allen, while the Local serves focaccia sangers, house-made pastries and Everyday coffee from a takeaway
window near the CBD. That queue snaking down Pakington at the Newtown end?
Join it, immediately, and you’ll soon be in the sourdough haven that is Born and Bread (moving to a new location just down the road in January). You’ll want to loosen the purse strings as it’s tricky to choose a favourite, but chilli jam twists and custard-filled pecan buns are top contenders.
Come Saturday evening, Geelong’s Little Malop Street pulses with energy. Get your hands dirty at Nashville-inspired bar The Hot Chicken Project, where spice levels range from mild to the blisteringly hot “evil”. Then, ascend the hidden staircase next door for a nightcap at 18th Amendment, a moody bar that nods to America’s prohibition years with cocktails named Bonnie and Clyde, and Thomas Edison.
If your trip takes you further down the coast, stop at Booln Booln Cafe at the Wathaurong Booln Booln Cultural Centre. There’s Blak Brews tea, jaffles packed with fillings inspired by indigenous ingredients such as kangaroo ragu with Kakadu plum, and a $60 Outback High Tea on Fridays.
Time your visit to Torquay with the Saturday morning Farmer’s Market and you’ll get a food tour of the region without leaving the sunny council carpark. Grab iced matcha, chilli-laden Tibetan momos, giant duck spring rolls, or spinach boreks drizzled with yoghurt and chilli, before browsing fresh produce, smallgoods and meat.
Back in town, a beachside picnic is instantly enhanced by Gooley’s pulled chook roll with herby mayo, lettuce and potato crisps. Before the sun sets, saunter over to Mortadeli’s revamped space to enjoy a spritz alongside ham and bechamel
arancini. With any luck you’ll catch a courtyard DJ set.
Don’t return to the big smoke without taking the scenic route along the Great Ocean Road to Anglesea cellar and deli Winespeake, the latest outpost of the Daylesford-born business. It’s stocked with local and European wines, Victorian craft beers and goodies like Berthe sardines and Acide pickles. Nab a seat if you’re keen to sample some drops to take home along with an epic ham and raclette toastie.
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Emily Holgate – Emily is the Assistant Producer for the Good Food App at The Age. She previously wrote for the likes of Broadsheet and Urban List.Connect via email.
