If you have ever experienced adult acne, it helps to understand the main causes before thinking about treatment. Dermatologist Dr Cara McDonald explains that, in most cases, multiple and complex factors are in play. “Typically, hormonal fluctuations play a role, but stress, diet and genetics can also contribute,” she says. “In many cases, there are environmental or external factors, such as inappropriate skincare or make-up, that also contribute to the problem.”

Treatment options can vary, and the things that worked on our teenage skin might not be as effective later in life. “In general, teenage acne results from over-active oil glands and blockages within the pores, so treatments like retinoids and benzoyl peroxide focus on oil control and unblocking pores,” says McDonald. “Adult acne, however, is more often inflammatory and hormonally driven, appearing as deeper, tender bumps on the lower face. Here treatment needs to focus more on reducing inflammation.”

This is why it is important to consult a dermatologist. “Each person’s acne is different, and ideally the skincare routine should be tailored to the individual, depending on their age, skin type and acne severity,” McDonald says.

Still, there is plenty you can do at a preventative level to help keep breakouts at bay. Protect skin daily with an SPF 50+ and keep it hydrated to help reduce inflammation. A gentle skincare routine is a good start, but active ingredients can then be utilised to target troublesome congestion and inflammation.

A key ingredient that can help is salicylic acid. It’s a keratolytic, meaning that it promotes shedding of the outer layers of skin and breaks down bonds between dead skin cells to prevent blockages forming in pores. It also promotes cell turnover to help repair collagen. Another is beta-lipohydroxy acid (LHA), which has a gentle keratolytic action as well as being antibacterial and anti-inflammatory. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), including glycolic acid, citric acid and lactic acid, help to increase cell turnover, while hyaluronic acid boosts hydration.

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McDonald also rates zinc, which acts as an anti-inflammatory and regulates sebum production, while niacinamide (vitamin B3) “has a potent anti-inflammatory action, is an anti-oxidant and also increases skin hydration and helps repair skin barrier function”.

The final weapon in the fight against acne is the vitamin A derivative retinol, which regulates cell turnover and helps to reduce blockages as well as increasing collagen production to help diminish scarring.

All of these active acne fighters can cause irritation, so make sure you seek professional advice before purchasing any products. “It’s important to ensure active acne is treated first, then address scarring once breakouts are under control,” says McDonald.