This was the year that Hummus Prince Tom Sarafian’s first restaurant was supposed to open in the city, but the universe had other plans. Instead, the former Bar Saracen chef’s debut venue, Zareh, will open on Smith Street, Collingwood, in late March or early April next year.

Named after his grandfather, the restaurant underpinned by Armenian, Middle Eastern and Eastern European cuisines was originally a joint venture between Sarafian and The Mulberry Group, which owns venues including Hazel and Lilac Wine. There was also a deli planned, selling imported Lebanese condiments and spices, as well as breakfast and lunch.

But Sarafian announced on Monday that he would go it alone. He and the Mulberry Group considered at least five sites for the project, but none was suitable.

“It just didn’t feel right,” says Sarafian.

The Smith Street site he’s taken on is a ground-floor heritage space beneath luxury apartments. It was originally slated to become Indian fine-diner Aanya. Designer Min Tseng (Toddy Shop, Kolkata Cricket Club) will use timber and pastel tones to create the welcoming setting Sarafian seeks for the 40-seater.

“I’ve always dreamed of creating a place that feels like home, and shares the generous and rich hospitality of the Middle East for everyone who walks through the door,” he said in a statement.

The chef’s original plan for a contemporary restaurant complemented by an all-day deli (named Sarafian) has been scaled down. Zareh will now span restaurant and retail, with the deli plans shelved. It will open initially as a breakfast and lunch venue, with dinners added later.

Copper trim will frame large windows that catch afternoon light. A top-tier sound system and record player will have pride of place, along with the charcoal grill. Fridges will display house-cured bastourma, freshly made yoghurt, olives, and more for sale.

The menu will include signature dishes that the chef showcased while at Bar Saracen (part-owned by Rumi’s Joseph Abboud), such as hummus topped with prawn and spanner crab, and trout fatteh. New dishes will be heavily influenced by Sarafian’s Armenian and Egyptian heritage, as well as the cooking of North Africa, Lebanon, Egypt and beyond, with most things cooked over a large charcoal barbecue and wood oven.

Expect Egyptian-style falafel made with fava beans, eggs cooked in the Lebanese claypots fakhar, and generous spreads of meze and salads at lunch.

This will be Sarafian’s first permanent chef gig since Bar Saracen closed in 2021. Since then, he’s launched an eponymous retail line that includes handmade hummus, as well as running frequent events and pop-ups.

368 Smith Street, Collingwood, instagram.com/zareh.melbourne