Review: Our critic has been patiently waiting to tell you about this spot

December 1, 2025
7:51 pm

From the get-go, Sogumm has been home to some of the most interesting, thoughtful cooking in town.

14.5/20Critics’ Pick

Korean$

There is a misperception in the public and in the hospitality industry that the question of when to review a restaurant comes down to fairness: fairness to the restaurant (if we wait to review); fairness to the public who are paying full price from day one (if we review quickly). For me, the calculation is much more based on allowing the restaurant to become what it will be in the long run – ideally, a review should stand the test of time rather than capture an early moment.

But sometimes, this waiting for a venue to settle becomes a trap. Take Sogumm, the modern Korean restaurant in Cremorne that opened in April. From the get-go, it was some of the most interesting, thoughtful cooking in town. Owners Changhoon and Suhyun Kim met while working at the temple Baegyangsa in South Korea, studying under fermentation expert and Buddhist nun Jeong Kwan. Between the two, they also have experience in fine dining restaurants around the world and here in Australia. But for their own restaurant, they took more inspiration from the cooking done at the temple, aiming for something careful and nourishing rather than flashy or fancy.

But there was no liquor licence, and the restaurant only served lunch. Word from the owners was that eventually, dinner service and a drinks program would arrive. So, I waited. And waited. And visited, not to review, but because I was curious. And visited again, simply because the cooking called me back, the quiet pleasure of eating cold noodles bathed in a sauce that defied categorisation – sweet but bracing, the edge of fermentation giving it a thwack of power – in a serene room.

Almost always, the flavours are unexpected, but the surprise is always one that engenders delight.

A few weeks back, the signs went up that indicated a liquor licence was in place, but the only offering was Carlton Draught in a bottle. I stuck to the sikhye, a non-alcoholic punch that tastes deeply of the rice with which it’s made, mellow and comforting. I asked about dinner hours. “Maybe some time next year,” the waitress said, vaguely.

And so, for now, I think we should take Sogumm as it is: a quiet daytime respite from the madness of Church Street outside, where the vibe is contemplative and the food is focused on balance.

Wagyu yukhoe bibimbap.Eddie Jim

The Kims work methodically behind a dining counter, arranging kimchi in neat stacks on lovely little glazed dishes, carrying plates to the handful of wooden tables, giving explanations of the methods used: the chicken thighs are marinated in Korean wine yeast for tenderness; the brisket is slow-cooked in pepper sauce before being sliced; the shiitakes on the house-made acorn jelly are pickled in soy.

Almost always, the flavours are unexpected, but the surprise is always one that engenders delight rather than confusion. I’ve enjoyed exploring the whole menu, but it’s difficult not to go back again and again to the wagyu yukhoe bibimbap, a raw beef mixture over lettuce and rice in a soy-based sauce that lends a mysterious sweetness, lightly fruity, delicately spicy, round and soft and delicious.

Those cold noodles are a close second, shot through with tender sliced abalone and tendrils of calamari and the occasional crunch of carrot, cucumber and kohlrabi.

Galbi jjim: wagyu brisket with choy sum.Eddie Jim

The wagyu brisket is deeply comforting, swimming in a galbi-style sauce doused with black pepper, vibrant green leaves of choy sum giving it lift and balance. Even the rice (a must-order side with the brisket) is stellar, just sticky enough without turning to mush; fragrant and soothing.

Perhaps the menu will get a little longer down the track – for now there are only six or so options plus starters, and at least one of them is usually sold out. Perhaps the beverage program will grow to include more than one kind of beer. Maybe dinner will usher in a whole different vibe, something more formal or celebratory or unique.

But Sogumm is a wonderful addition to Melbourne’s dining scene just as it is – a thoughtful, soulful study in craft, flavour and attention to detail. I’ll take it in whatever form it manifests.