Nestled among the slim-fit Neapolitan-style pizzas at Redfern’s new Regina La Pizzeria are a couple of heftier pan-baked pizzas. Co-owner Federico Zanellato believes the style has unfairly been given a bad rap by the worst examples of deep-dish pizza from Chicago and Detroit.

“Pan-baked pizza has always been part of the culture in Sicily and Calabria,” explains Zanellato, owner-chef of Pyrmont’s twin-toqued LuMi and part of the A-list team behind the recently opened Regina. Its Wunderlich Lane location is also home to new restaurants Olympus Dining and Island Radio.

In case you missed it, a battle of the size-related variety has been waged in our pizzerias, with deep dish – which US comedian Jon Stewart once described as more casserole than pizza – on the nose with pizza fans, who currently favour a crispy waif.

“It doesn’t have a great reputation,” Zanellato says of the American iteration, whose principal offences tend to be overcooked cheese, too much topping and filling, and poor-quality ingredients.

While some of the pan-baked pizza tradition in Italy revolves around a focaccia base and a closed lid, Regina’s pizzaiolo and co-owner, Matteo Ernandes, has created a unique open pan-baked pizza.

“I’ve never seen anything like it in Sydney,” Zanellato says. The pizza is blind- baked before service, “then we open it up and stuff it, either with provolone or [tomato-free] white bolognese”.

Regina has a couple of other tricks up its sleeve: its wholemeal dough and a Naples-built Fazzone pizza oven. “The oven has made a massive difference, it’s the only one in Australia at the moment,” Zanellato says.

“The volcanic stone has consistent temperature, and the smaller door helps make it more efficient. We’re going through a third of the wood we would with other pizza ovens,” the chef says. The Fazzone oven’s smaller dome also helps the toppings cook properly.

Zanellato and Ernandes have teamed up at the 85-seat Regina with chef Karl Firla (Restaurant Leo) and LuMi co-owner Michela Boncagni, who runs the floor.

They’ve combined their collective restaurant experience with good wine and beer lists, and a tight cocktail line-up that includes a Negroni Sbagliato (Campari, prosecco, sweet vermouth). You can also tuck into zucchini flowers, polpette, and a tomato, strawberry and basil salad, but at the end of the day, it’s all about the pizza.

Regina covers the low-profile classics too, with a margherita and a pork-sausage-driven friarielli. The specials list includes the Versace (king prawns) and the Bocelli – a creamy, cheesy mix of fior di latte, manchego, smoked provola, comte, gorgonzola and ricotta, with candied walnuts and truffle honey.

Open lunch Sat-Sun; dinner daily

Wunderlich Lane, corner Baptist and Cleveland Street, Redfern, reginapizzeria.com

Three other new pizza places in Sydney to try

Pizza Oltra

Pizza Oltra has earned a fast following at Haymarket for its mix of artisan toppings, which might include a surf and turf of garlic prawns and 𝄒nduja, or caramelised apple spiced sausage with shaved fennel, sage and burnt butter. In January, Pizza Oltra spread its wings with a new location, opening in the new Poor Toms HQ in Marrickville. Poor Toms co-owner, Griffen Blumer, describes the tie-in as a partnership. He adds it isn’t a pop-up; Pizza Oltra is a permanent fixture. Classic pizzas are already being served, and in February they’ll expand to pan pizzas. “American style, but done with proper ingredients,” Blumer says.

Open lunch Sat; dinner Thu-Sat

3/10 Brompton Street, Marrickville, oltra.pizza

Cibaria Manly

Chef Alessandro Pavoni (Ormeggio at The Spit, a’Mare) is behind this sprawling new ode to all things Italian opposite the Manly beachfront. Gelateria, cafeteria and trattoria all under one roof, Cibaria also has a pizzaiolo pumping out pizzetta in the cafeteria. There’s a margherita; a spicy diavola with Calabrian salami, fior di latte and chilli oil; and a vegan-friendly Nerano, with zucchini trifolati and basil. Pizzetta bianca and pizzetta rossa in the trattoria? Tick, tick. You can even order a pizza fritta, the flash-fried favourite of Sophia Loren’s character in the 1954 film The Gold of Naples.

Open breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

55 North Steyne, Manly, cibariamanly.au

MMC Slice Shoppe

The team behind Bexley North pizzeria My Mother’s Cousin launched MMC Slice Shoppe in December, in the old Barzaari space in Marrickville. New York-style slices are the main game here, so kick back with a classic of mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil and shavings of pecorino, or head straight to the pepperoni. There’s also a white pizza (house-made cheese mix, ricotta and caramelised onions) and garlic bread.