Mark the end of Ramadan with this spread featuring mansaf kharouf (lamb on rice), fried cauliflower drizzled with tarator, a deluxe version of fattoush and a delicious spin on baba ghanoush.
Food is a marriage of culture and nourishment for Sydney cooking teacher Karima Hazim Chatila and her mother, Sivine Tabbouch. Together, they run Sydney cooking school Sunday Kitchen, sharing their skills and showing others how to make family recipes and popular Lebanese dishes.
“In Lebanon, food is meant to be plentiful and shared generously,” Chatila writes in the pair’s cookbook Sofra. “And food served as a language in my family, a way to show love and nurture, a way to share family history and a way my mother instilled strong cultural values in her three daughters.”
The cookbook contains nine spreads to serve at gatherings of about 10 people – recipes that bring together families and friends at weekends and special cultural and religious occasions.
Here, the mother-daughter duo share a feast for Eid al-Fitr, a celebration that marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan for Muslims worldwide.
“Mum’s spreads almost always consisted of a salad – seasonal, crunchy, vibrant, tossed in a rich and delicately balanced dressing. Fattoush not only renews the palate between mouthfuls of lamb and rice, it creates something I like to call plate juices that become one with the flavours of the other dishes, to be mopped up with that last piece of bread and make the final mouthfuls delectable,” Chatila writes.
“Although it began as a feast for Eid, this spread was so popular, it slowly became a weekend treat and will always hold a special place in my heart.”
Mansaf kharouf (Lamb on a bed of jewelled rice)
Serving lamb on a bed of rice is popular all over the Levant, with each region preparing it slightly differently. A longer-grain variety, Sella rice, is usually preferred as it is less starchy and cooks beautifully with the broth, ensuring the grains remain fluffy. Adorning this rice with nuts and currants is really up to your taste. The currants add a refreshing sweetness.
Lebanese families forge a strong allegiance to their butcher; ours has been the same through three generations. Mum always buys lamb on the bone and asks the butcher to cut the shoulder to fit her casserole dish and trim off as much fat as possible. You could adapt the recipe to a small cut of lamb shoulder; or, if you buy meat off the bone, add a lamb shank to the pot.
Slow-cooking on the bone is a common practice in Lebanese cooking and adds a depth of flavour to the nutritious broth, which can be used to cook the rice. Trimming excess fat gives a flavoursome broth that is both light and clear yet rich and layered with flavour. Too much fat will spoil the dish. As she did when we were young, Mum always ladles a few spoons of broth into a bowl with a generous squeeze of lemon juice for us to drink and drizzle over the meat and rice.
INGREDIENTS
- 1 whole lamb shoulder, fat removed and cut into quarters (ask your butcher to do this)
For the marinade
- 1 tbsp Sabaa bharat (see below)
- ½ tbsp paprika
- sea salt, to taste
- 1 tsp ground black pepper
- 120ml (½ cup) olive oil
Aromatics for the stock
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 4 dried bay leaves
- 6 cardamom pods
- 2 star anise
- 2 dried limes
- 6 allspice berries
For the rice
- 720g (4 cups) Indian basmati rice (parboiled Sella if available, otherwise regular basmati is fine)
- 1 tbsp ghee
- ½ tsp black pepper
- sea salt, to taste
- 1 tsp Sabaa bharat (see below)
- 6 cloves
- 1.4 litres (6 cups) meat stock (from cooking the lamb shoulder)
- 60g (½ cup) currants
For the nuts
- 2 tbsp ghee
- 75g (½ cup) halved almonds
- 60g (½ cup) cashews
- 40g (¼ cup) pine nuts
METHOD
- Put the trimmed lamb in a large mixing bowl. Add the marinade spices and olive oil and massage it well.
- Place a large, heavy-based, flameproof casserole dish on high heat, add 3 litres (12 cups) of water and bring to a boil. Add the aromatics for the stock and keep it boiling.
- Place a large saucepan on a high heat. Take each piece of shoulder one at a time and let it sizzle for 3 minutes on each side until it forms a golden brown crust all over and you begin to see juices form in the pan. Once you sear each piece of lamb, place it directly into the stock pot with the aromatics and boiling water. It does not matter if you miss browning sections of the meat as long as most of it is seared.
- Once you have browned all the meat, ladle one cup of the stock into the pan, scraping up any pieces of meat from the bottom of the pan before returning them, along with the juices, to the stock pot with the meat. Ensure the meat is completely submerged. If not, add more boiling water.
- Bring the pot to a boil, uncovered, and skim off and discard any foamy scum that rises to the top. Reduce the heat until the water is simmering very gently, put the lid on and let it cook for up to 3 hours.
- After 1 hour, use a knife to poke the limes to release their flavour. Remove any scum that rises during the first hour; the aim is to get the stock as clean as possible during the cooking process. The meat is ready when it is very tender and falls off the bone when lifted from the pot. This is when you can use the stock for the jewelled rice. Turn the heat off, and bring back to the boil to reheat later, if necessary.
- Wash the rice (see note). Place a deep (non-stick) saucepan on high heat, and add the ghee to melt. Add the rice and stir gently to coat it in ghee. It’s important you season the rice before adding any liquid, so add the spices and salt, followed by the cloves and then the stock.
- Bring the stock to a boil, then turn down the heat, cover and simmer on low for 40-50 minutes, or until the rice is cooked. Turn off the heat and leave covered to cool down slightly.
- To prepare the nuts, place the ghee in a small frypan and fry the nuts one type at a time, in batches, until lightly golden and fragrant. The nuts cook at different times and temperatures so keep an eye on them and stir constantly. Once browned, remove with a slotted spoon and place in a bowl.
- Once the rice has slightly cooled, scoop it onto a large serving dish with elevated sides – not too deep but deep enough that the rice doesn’t spill out. Add half of the nuts and currants and lightly toss them through the rice.
- Using tongs, gently pull the meat out of the pot and place the tender pieces all over the rice, pulling some of the larger chunks apart. I like to keep some of the meat pieces on the bone.
- Adorn the meat with the rest of the nuts and currants and serve immediately.
Note: Always wash the rice to remove the starch by rinsing it in a bowl under cold water until the water runs clear. This should be done just before you are about to cook and never earlier.
Tabbouch w’ khobez mekli (Mum’s eggplant and yoghurt dip with fried bread crackers)
While baba ghanoush is popular for its smokiness, it is an acquired taste and one we didn’t love as children. Mum created her signature dip instead; she fried the eggplant and combined it with garlic and mint yoghurt, and, at home, we know this as “Tabbouch dip”.
INGREDIENTS
- 8 medium-sized eggplants
- sea salt
- neutral oil, for deep-frying
- 3 garlic cloves
- 500g (2 cups) Greek yoghurt
- 1½ tbsp crushed dried mint, plus ½ tbsp to garnish
For the bread crackers (khobez mekli)
- 5 whole pieces of Lebanese bread
- 2 tbsp Zaatar baladi (see below)
- a handful of oregano leaves, optional
METHOD
- It is crucial to draw out the liquid from the eggplants with salt before frying. They must be prepared on the day, so start by washing them and removing the tops.
- Remove the skin of the eggplants, leaving a few thin strips of skin around (like a zebra pattern), as the skin adds texture. Cut the eggplants in half lengthways, then in quarters so you have 4 boats. Chop into large cubes and place in a strainer.
- Place the strainer over a bowl and add a large handful of salt. Leave, uncovered, in the fridge overnight.
- Tear the bread into large palm-sized pieces. The inner side of the bread is coarse and that is the side that should be face down when frying. Place a colander over a bowl beside the stove.
- Heat a medium-sized frypan or wok and add 500ml (2 cups) of oil. Once the oil is hot, reduce to medium heat, add one piece of bread to test the frying time and colour. Once you place the bread in the oil, tap on each corner to stop it from curling up. The bread should be golden when it leaves the oil and usually darkens to a light brown when it has cooled. Once you get the hang of it, you can start frying in batches of 4, but be careful not to overcrowd the pan. Leave the bread crackers in the prepared colander to cool down and for any excess oil to drip off.
- In the same pan, add more oil and begin to fry the eggplants in small batches for about 10 minutes until they are browned on the outside and soft on the inside. Place the fried eggplants in a colander for at least 2 hours to strain off any excess oil.
- To prepare the yoghurt dip, place the garlic and a generous pinch of salt in a pestle and mortar, crushing it to a paste before transferring it to a mixing bowl. Add the yoghurt and, using a wooden spoon, beat with the garlic and salt mixture. Once combined, mix in the crushed dried mint. Taste and add more salt or garlic if necessary.
- Once the eggplants have drained, tear them slightly with your fingers into the yoghurt mixture, and then combine until you have a thick and textured dip.
- To serve, place the fried bread crackers on a platter and generously sprinkle them with zaatar and fresh oregano, if you like. Garnish the dip with dried mint and serve alongside the fried bread crackers.
Arnabeet mekli w’ tarator (Fried cauliflower and rustic tarator)
Mum’s tarator has a large handful of finely chopped parsley tossed through it, which gives it a freshness and a rustic texture that works so well against the fried cauliflower. Although the tarator is traditionally served in a small bowl beside the cauliflower, we like to drizzle it all over the pile of golden fried florets and scatter with a generous pinch of Aleppo pepper for an extra smoky crunch.
INGREDIENTS
- 2 large heads of cauliflower
- neutral oil, for frying (your choice)
For the rustic tarator
- 1 large garlic clove
- sea salt, to taste
- 4 heaped tbsp tahini
- juice of 1 lemon
- ½ bunch of parsley
- Aleppo pepper, to garnish
- fresh Lebanese bread, to serve
METHOD
- Wash the cauliflower heads and trim the florets, keeping their stems attached. Place the florets in a pot of water seasoned with salt and bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then drain and set aside.
- Fill a frypan or wok with any neutral oil, and bring to a high heat before reducing slightly. Add a handful of cauliflower florets, being careful not to overcrowd the pan, turning them continuously as they cook. Fry until the cauliflower is a rich golden brown. Remove from the oil and place on a plate covered with paper towels to remove excess oil. Repeat with the remaining cauliflower.
- To make the tarator, crush the garlic with salt in a small bowl. Add the tahini, scooping from the bottom of the jar to ensure you are not just using the oil at the top. Begin to break in the tahini with the garlic, adding lemon juice to prevent it from curdling and stiffening. You can also add water and use a whisk to reach the desired consistency.
- Prepare the parsley by washing it well and removing the stems, then finely chop the leaves. Add the parsley and combine.
- Place the fried cauliflower on a flat plate and drizzle the tarator all over. Garnish with Aleppo pepper and serve with fresh Lebanese bread.
Deluxe fattoush (Deluxe salad)
Mum loves to joke that the fattoush of her childhood consisted of no more than four vegetables and relied on what was in season in the garden or whatever she could find in the fridge. I am completely responsible for the exaggeration of the ingredients here.
The fattoush can be prepared the day before (minus the tomatoes, which I like to dice fresh on the day) and kept in an airtight container in the fridge, along with the dressing in a jar.
INGREDIENTS
- 3 Lebanese cucumbers
- 3 tomatoes
- ½ yellow capsicum
- ½ red capsicum
- 5 spring onions
- 1 bunch of small radishes
- 1 cos lettuce
- ¼ small white cabbage
- ¼ small purple cabbage
- ½ bunch of mint
- 1 bunch of parsley
- 1 bunch of purslane (if available)
- 1 bunch of oregano
- 1 loaf of Lebanese bread
- 1 pomegranate, deseeded
For the dressing
- 60ml (¼ cup) pomegranate molasses (or to taste)
- 120ml (½ cup) lemon juice
- 120ml (½ cup) olive oil
- sea salt, to taste
- 1 tbsp sumac, plus extra for serving
- 2 garlic cloves, crushed
METHOD
- Wash all the vegetables and fresh herbs and leave them to dry.
- Pick off the leaves of the mint, parsley, purslane, if using, and oregano and set them aside in a bowl. I like to remove the stems and keep the leaves whole so I can taste each herb in each mouthful but if the mint leaves are large, cut them in half.
- Dice the cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and spring onions to size; keep this a consistent 1cm. Chop the radishes into discs and then matchsticks, like a julienne. The cos lettuce can also be chopped in 1cm lengths. Using a sharp knife, finely slice the cabbages, starting from the tip of the wedge and working your way around, keeping the slices thin and consistent.
- If you do not want to fry the bread, you can bake it in the oven at 180C fan-forced (200C conventional) until crisp, then lightly crush it with your hands into a bowl to garnish the fattoush at the end. If you are frying bread as part of the spread, set some aside to use as a garnish.
- In a small mixing bowl, combine the dressing ingredients and mix well with a fork.
- To assemble, combine half the pomegranate seeds, the remaining ingredients (except the bread) and the dressing, and toss using your hands. Scoop the salad into a serving bowl. Scatter the crushed Lebanese bread on top along with the remaining pomegranate seeds and an extra pinch of sumac. Serve immediately.
Sabaa bharat (Seven-spice bharat)
This is the signature scent of Lebanese cooking, a classic blend of seven spices. Ratios often vary from each region and generally, each family will have their own recipe.
INGREDIENTS
- 2 tbsp black peppercorns
- 3 tbsp cumin seeds
- 3 tsp coriander seeds
- 3 tsp grated nutmeg
- 1 tsp cloves
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 3 tsp allspice (pimento) berries
METHOD
- If using whole spices, grind them in a spice grinder or with a pestle and mortar to create a smooth powder. You may have to use a fine sieve to sift out any chunky pieces. If using ground spices, place them in a bowl and combine well. Stored in an airtight glass jar, the spice blend will last for several months.
Makes about 150g
Za’atar baladi (Traditional zaatar)
Za’atar is the Arabic name for the wild green thyme that is dried and used to create the spice blend of the same name. Many native varieties of zaatar grow
in the Levant, with its thin, spiky green leaves and purple flowers, which produce
quite a spicy, hearty, earthy flavour – with variations throughout the region. The zaatar spice blend consists of dried thyme, sumac, toasted sesame seeds
and salt.
INGREDIENTS
- 20g (⅔ cup) native Lebanese zaatar or 15g (⅓ cup) dried thyme and 15g (⅓ cup) dried oregano
- 15g (⅓ cup) sumac
- 40g (¼ cup) toasted sesame seeds
- sea salt, to taste
METHOD
- Place the dried herbs, sumac and sesame seeds in a dry frypan on low heat and combine until fragrant, then season with salt and leave to cool. Store in an airtight glass jar for up to 6 months.
Makes about 150g
Preparation
The day before
- Prepare the eggplants by salting them generously and placing them in a strainer overnight
- Prepare and trim the lamb fat to begin cooking first thing in
the morning - Wash and allow the fattoush ingredients to dry, then store them
in an airtight bag in the fridge - Fry the Lebanese bread, cool, then store in an airtight bag,
reserving the oil for the eggplants the following day - Make the tarator, chop the parsley, cover separately and
set aside in the fridge - Prepare the cauliflower, boil, then leave to cool and place in an airtight container in the fridge
- Fry the nuts, leave to cool, then place in an airtight container
- Deseed the pomegranate and store the arils in an airtight container
in the fridge
In the morning (4 hours before lunch)
- Sear the lamb, place it in a pot on the stove and begin cooking
- Fry the eggplants and leave to drain
- Fry the cauliflower and leave to drain
- Chop the fattoush ingredients and make the dressing, then set aside in the fridge
- Make the eggplant dip and set aside in the fridge
- Prepare the rice using the stock from the lamb pot
Final stages
- Garnish the fried bread and assemble on a platter to serve
- Plate the eggplant and yoghurt dip ready to serve
- Plate the cauliflower, mix the tarator, and drizzle on top
to garnish - Combine the fattoush with the dressing, plate and garnish
- Plate up the rice with the meat on top, garnish with the nuts
and currants
This is an edited extract from Sofra by Karima Hazim Chatila and Sivine Tabbouch, photography by Luisa Brimble, published by Hardie Grant Books, hardback RRP $50
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