So you’ve come to worship at the Alla Wolf-Tasker altar. Four decades ago, Lake House’s culinary director pioneered the hyper-seasonal, ultra-local movement, and today her handle of all things homegrown is as impressive as ever. Few others can produce a potato veloute this velvety, made with Dutch creams from the restaurant’s nearby 15-hectare farm and clutching a single sweet, pickled mussel. Padron pepper granita provides welcome zing to southern bluefin tuna, which is cut into crimson sheets that shroud chopped belly. Kimchi brings enduring heat to Murray cod, while fresh blood orange and sticky sherry gel brighten fatty bricks of crackle-topped Berkshire pork belly. The beauty of this natural bounty plays well with lake views from the recently refreshed dining room, its plush carpets and cloud-like Fandango lights as refined as the choreographed duos that deliver each glorious plate.