I make versions of this noodle soup all winter long and it’s one of the first things I seek out when I’m in Japan. I love the lightness of the dashi (stock), which is seasoned gently with soy sauce, mirin and sugar. Here, the dashi is made simply with katsuobushi (bonito flakes), but you could use dashi powder if you prefer.

The used katsuobushi can be reserved to make a second dashi: simply store it in an airtight container in the fridge for two or three days. Traditionally, this dish is made with a long Japanese onion called negi, but spring onions are a wonderful substitute in Australia.