Italian cuisine, created with quality and flair | Canberra CityNews

Italian cuisine, created with quality and flair | Canberra CityNews

“As much as I pop the champagne cork when a new restaurant, bar or café hits the capital, I am committed this year to toasting the hospitality venues that have been feeding Canberrans and visitors for years and years. They deserve our support,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

I first reviewed multi award-winning Italian and Sons in 2012 and felt right at home when I visited several weeks back. 

Wendy Johnson.

Meticulously prepared, authentic Italian cuisine, created with quality ingredients and flair, is the name of the game at Italian and Sons in Braddon. 

The compact antipasti selection is enticing, and we started by sharing a stunning beef carpaccio ($26) topped off with a vibrant green salsa that packed a punch. 

We loved the shavings of Testun al Barolo, a semi-hard, mixed-milk cheese characterised by a blend of creamy and sharp flavours. We squeezed fresh lemon on top and savoured every bite. 

A favourite dish of our lunch was the grilled, melt-in-the-mouth calamari. The whole tube was wood-grilled and accompanied by a chili romesco – rich, smokey and slightly sweet – and a vibrant butter bean gremolata ($30). This type of Italian dish makes the heart go pitter-patter. 

The dishes in the Italian and Sons’ pasta section (made in-house and available gluten-free for an additional $4) range from $38 to $43. 

Wonderfully balanced with a lovely texture was the ricotta and gorgonzola agnolotti. This dish shines the spotlight on that art of pasta making. The six pieces of stuffed agnolotti were delicately plated in a round and looked as beautiful as they tasted. The pasta was divine with a honey and sage butter. 

From the specials board we ordered line-caught snapper ($55). The fillet was perfectly cooked, with a crispy skin, and served on top of a tasty Sicilian eggplant caponata… simple ingredients, well executed. 

I fixated on enjoying a pasta and, loving lobster as I do, didn’t hesitate to order the Pici ($43). This traditional pasta is thicker than spaghetti and known for its chewy texture.

We agreed the dish didn’t look as inviting as the others, but there was a generous serve of lobster and loads of delicious sauce. While the combination of saffron, tomato, white wine and chilli hit the spot, the dish was heavier than I anticipated, and I couldn’t finish it all (sad face).

Our Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio (2023) was ordered on the recommendation of Italian and Sons, and it was a top pick ($115). Italian and Sons is a haven for wine lovers with an extensive and impressive selection. 

Dessert ended our leisurely lunch on a high note. The dense chocolate sorbet was smooth and decadent. The chunks of honeycomb on top were sweet and crunchy. 

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Thank you,

Ian Meikle, editor