The reason Peppina was going to be called Maria’s is that the food served here is so heavily influenced by Maria Mele and her Neapolitan heritage. The handmade pastas, the slow-cooked sauces, the stewed greens … these are straight out of the Maria Mele handbook, classics around the house when Massimo was growing up, both early on in Naples and later in Hobart.
“Her style is very ‘casalinga’, old-school flavours,” Massimo says. “She’s the reason I am the chef I am today. She just puts in a lot of love and a lot of time. It’s very gentle, her style, very subtle, but delicious. And obviously seasonal, because everything is coming out of her garden – and that’s an extension of what we do at the restaurant as well.”
Good food, done well.
Check out Maria’s influence in the likes of Massimo’s mozzarella dish, which is served on a bed of stewed bitter greens. “It makes no sense,” Massimo says. “Most Italian restaurants, it’s just the mozzarella and the prosciutto on a plate. But I like to eat it with the greens that my mum does.”
See that influence, too, in the paccheri Genovese, a rich ragu of wagyu beef shin and pork belly. Spot it in the lamb rump with steamed baby chard, tomatoes and olives. Slow food. Food of passion. Food of love.
Maybe there’s a hotel out there in Australia right now with a better restaurant. Maybe. Plenty of these places now have style. They have a sense of occasion.
But very few have such soul.
The Tasman’s signature restaurant Peppina is a stone’s throw from Salamanca.
THE DETAILS
More
Eat
Peppina is open for dinner seven nights a week (5pm-9pm), and for lunch on Fridays (12pm-2pm). See peppinarestaurant.com
Stay
The Tasman, Hobart is just near Salamanca and has a wide range of beautiful rooms from $324 a night. See website above.
Five more high-quality hotel restaurants
Atria, Ritz-Carlton, Melbourne
Set on the 80th floor of the Ritz-Carlton, Atria has plenty of that ritz, but under culinary advisor Mark Best’s guidance, also excellent fare. ritzcarlton.com
Oncore by Clare Smyth, Crown Sydney
Michelin-starred British chef Clare Smyth brings her talents to Australian shores at this pricey but perfect fine-diner. crownsydney.com.au
Lake House, Daylesford
Australia’s original destination dining venue continues to bring in the crowds with its inventive, though soulful cuisine. lakehouse.com.au
Hellenika, The Calile, Brisbane
Modern Greek fare making the most of high-quality local ingredients, served in a stylish dining room or as poolside snacks? Yes, please. thecalile.com
Garcon Bleu, Sofitel, Adelaide
Head chef Gianni Delogu blends modern French and Australian influences, utilising local produce, in a dining room with views all the way to Adelaide Hills. sofiteladelaide.com.au
The writer travelled as a guest of The Tasman.
