Mac and cheese is one of the most popular dishes on the winter menu at Ruben’s Deli in Armadale, in Melbourne’s south-east.

“It’s not a family recipe and there’s no origin story – but as a New York-inspired deli, it felt like a no-brainer to have on the menu,” says co-owner Amanda Ruben. “We trialled a version, refined it, and it’s since become a local favourite.”

While the deli specialises in hefty NY-style sandwiches such as the Reuben, made with house-smoked pastrami, some customers come by just for the mac and cheese, sometimes pairing it with the deli’s signature iceberg wedge salad or oversized beef ribs.

“We put it out warm on the counter at lunchtime, and it usually sells out within the hour,” says Ruben.

She uses a mix of cheeses, which add a richness and depth you don’t typically get from standard mac and cheese, she says. “Each one brings its own character.”

It can be made even more special by adding some red Leicester cheese to the mix, which gives a nutty flavour and vibrant colour.

If you don’t have time to make your own breadcrumbs, good-quality store-bought crumbs are fine. But either way, don’t skimp on the crumb topping!