With the effects of climate change becoming increasingly apparent, will we soon be seeing local vineyards planting hardier varieties from warmer climes?
―L. M., Annandale
Yes, and we’re already seeing this on many points of the wine map. Bordeaux has sanctioned the planting of new varieties, such as marselan and touriga nacional, for the lower grades of red wine, bordeaux and bordeaux superieur. These grapes are better suited to a hotter climate than the typical Bordeaux varieties merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc.
Closer to home, vineyards in the Yarra Valley are now home to grenache and mourvedre, two varieties native to the southern half of France’s Rhone Valley; these are vines that appreciate heat and thrive in drier conditions. Even classic Mount Mary, noted for chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet, makes a red blend from southern Rhone varieties.
Very commendable shiraz is being produced in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, its east coast and even down south in the Coal River Valley near Hobart. This is revolutionary.
Sydney’s nearby Hunter Valley wine region has, for some years, been trying its hand at southern Italian grapes, such as fiano and vermentino, and the Spanish grape tempranillo.
The Barossa Valley, long famous for shiraz and cabernet, is now making excellent montepulciano, zinfandel and nero d’avola, all Italian grapes that like hot conditions. Grenache has always done well in the Barossa and McLaren Vale, but today’s wines are better and more celebrated than ever.
Speaking of McLaren Vale, cool-climate specialties, such as sauvignon blanc, chardonnay and riesling, were once grown widely there, but have all but vanished. Plantings of shiraz and grenache have taken precedence; add to them nero d’avola, sangiovese, tempranillo, touriga and other warm-climate southern European vines. Today, McLaren Vale has 90 per cent red varieties, whereas the mix was once more like 60:40 red to white.
Similarly, the emphasis in the Barossa is swinging to vines that tolerate heat and drought, such as roussanne, marsanne, grenache blanc and viognier.
We can expect the trend to continue. Change is the only constant.
Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au
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