Sponsored by Hong Kong Tourism Board
Amy Cooper
This year, the Hong Kong Wine & Dine Festival, from October 23 to 26, is the city’s ultimate showcase of its vibrant culinary scene. And when Andy Allen first touched down in Hong Kong, he was immediately hooked — by a humble bowl of wonton soup. The simple but spectacular late-night snack set the tone for a whirlwind four-day feast.
“It was delicious! I thought if this was a sign of things to come, we’re in for a bloody good trip,” he says.
For the MasterChef Australia judge, Hong Kong’s food scene is defined by devotion to detail; the way each eatery – whether a tofu street stall or a fine-dining Cantonese palace – strives for perfection. “These places have been doing the same dish for decades, even a century,” he says, “and they’ve just honed it.”
Dining at the top
Allen was excited to bag a table at Michelin-starred The Legacy House, flagship restaurant at the luxury Rosewood Hong Kong hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui, perched above Victoria Harbour.
Even better, he went straight to the source at Tseun Wan’s bustling wet market, accompanied by the restaurant’s executive chef, Li Chi Wai.
“A local market gives you such an understanding about the food culture,” says Allen. “We picked baby calamari, seasonal sea snails, big river prawns. Two hours later, they were in a wok with ginger, shallot and soy — the freshest thing I’ve ever eaten.”
Chef Li’s 13-course Cantonese feast transformed those raw materials into dishes that still give Allen pause. “A baby abalone dumpling, a lobster dumpling… the best dumplings I’ve ever eaten.”
At WING, number 11 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, chef Vicky Cheng’s blend of French technique and Cantonese heritage wowed Allen with both flavour and finesse.
Standouts included a king crab dish with crisp, chewy pan-fried rice noodles and a visually stunning braided Chinese eggplant in sweet-sour glaze. “WING was one of my top five dining experiences anywhere in the world,” Allen says.
Then there was The Chairman, a bastion of tradition. “It was grand and theatrical, very old-school impeccable service,” Allen says, “Lots of locals, families celebrating.” The highlight: flowery sand crab braised in Shaoxing rice wine, served table-side.
“They crack it for you right there and serve you these big slivers. That dish alone is enough reason to go.”
Street-level magic
For every fine dining moment, Hong Kong serves a street food standout to match. At unassuming laneway tables and holes-in-the-wall, technique and flavour can match up to a Michelin kitchen.
At Kung Wo Beancurd Factory, where tofu’s been made since 1893, Allen was wowed by semi-hard tofu fried in fish paste. “So simple, so delicious.”
There was the decadent roast goose at Yat Lok. “The skin was like glass, the meat so moist. I demolished half a bird myself.”
Hop Yik Tai provides another taste sensation: steamed rice rolls snipped with scissors and then doused in sesame and soy. Price: AU$1.50. “She took as much care as Vicky Cheng at WING,” Allen says. “It’s a different world – plastic chair versus fine china – but the same pride.”
At Mak’s Noodle, a clean, comforting bowl of second-generation chef Mak King-hung’s wonton noodle soup brought Allen’s tour full circle. “The broth was delicate; the noodles had this perfect bite. You could see the care in every bowl.”
Raise a glass and see the sights
The city’s bar scene is just as diverse. COA, ranked among the world’s best watering holes, has an extraordinary 41-page menu of agave spirit drinks and a deep knowledge of Mexican flavours. “I had a mezcal negroni and a spicy cucumber highball — fresh, zingy, amazing,” Allen says.
At Bar Leone, ranked Asia’s No. 1 Bar for two years in a row, the energy shifts to Italian flair, with white-jacketed bartenders, a glamorous crowd, a DJ, dancing — and still more food. “There were these plump, green smoked olives and mortadella sandwiches and we were smashing those at midnight,” says Allen.
Between meals, he squeezed in essential sightseeing. Ascending to The Peak on its famous tram revealed a Hong Kong of green hills, glittering harbour and islands. A sunset cruise aboard the traditional, red-sailed Aqua Luna junk boat offered beers and a panoramic sweep of the city’s shores. At M+ Museum, he marvelled at more than 60 Picassos.
Compact, comfortable, and made for savouring
One of Hong Kong’s greatest assets, Allen says, is its size. “The most we spent in a cab was 20 minutes. You can have Michelin in the evening and $1.50 noodles at lunch, all without moving far at all.”
He urges everyone to dive into the city’s street food scene. “You’re missing half of Hong Kong if you skip it,” he says. “It’s probably some of the freshest food you’ll eat. These vendors have been perfecting it for generations.”
And his essential advice: don’t just transit through Hong Kong — stay and savour.
“Even if you can only do two or three days, you’ll eat, drink and see more than in almost any other city. And you’ll leave with a list for next time, because you’ll always want to come back.”
For everything from attractions, events, dining and shopping to maps, guided tours, and travel itineraries: head to Discover Hong Kong to start planning your next Hong Kong holiday.
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