Polyanthus is a hardy, short-lived perennial that, while we treat it as an annual, with a few little tricks we can get it blooming year after year, says gardening columnist JACKIE WARBURTON.

Polyanthus is botanically a primula, along with primroses, and a terrific little plant to grow in a rockery, under the eaves or in a pot. 

It is herbaceous and dies down in the warmer months, but reappears in the cool of autumn. Its ruffled foliage appears first, then the flowers emerge from the centre of the plant. 

The diversity of flower colour is endless, and it will provide a display through winter, untroubled by the frost. It needs a little water to keep moist, but not wet. It doesn’t like lime.

Polyanthus prefers dappled shade, but the more sun, the more flowers. Once the clump gets bigger or the flowering display diminishes, it can be lifted and gently divided. Leaving the roots intact with small plantlets so they can be planted elsewhere in the garden. 

ALSO of the same family is the easy to grow Primula vulgaris. This species is fragrant; planting en masse in a bowl will show off its beauty as well as its scent.

The buttery yellow flowers bloom most of the winter and deadheading spent flowers keeps the plant blooming longer. 

If planting polyanthus or primulas this year, choose mature plants with strong roots that have already had a good start, water in and sprinkle a little diatomaceous earth to keep snails and slaters at bay. 

If you’re unsure whether its polyanthus or primroses in the garden, polyanthus flowers are on a stalk and flowers are above the foliage, whereas a primrose has its flowers near the foliage. 

Primula japonica, a dense, compact, little plant, is also popular with its crisp white or pink flowers through winter. It is suitable as a pollination plant that’s in flower when most fruit trees need the bees around. 

So, plant them in the orchard or the vegetable patch along with calendulas and nasturtiums for winter colour and pollination late winter, early spring. 

PLANTS that do not grow well, look stunted or yellow in general are showing signs they’re unhappy with the soil they’re in. 

Lemon trees are a perfect example of this and the different patterns on the leaves indicate which nutrient is missing in the plant and which nutrients are locked up in the soil. 

To make sure all the roots have access to all the minerals in the soil, a concentrate of hydrogen test should be done using a pH kit and following the instructions. 

Knowing what type of garden soil you have in the garden helps with deciding what plants to choose. 

Under or around conifers, acid-loving plants such as camellias, azaleas, and rhododendrons prefer that type of soil and will grow with little or no fuss. 

They like a soil lower in pH and most plants like the mid-spot, around 4pH-7pH. Anything over 7pH is considered alkaline or a “sweet soil” and a limited number of plants will grow in that type of soil.

Changing the pH needs to be done slowly. To make an alkaline soil lower in pH, add sulphur to the soil. For soil that is too acidic, raise the pH by adding a little gardener’s lime. 

Jottings

• Dig up all dahlias for winter protection. 

• Liquid feed bulbs as they are growing. 

• Clean up old fruit and leaves from fruit trees. 

• Plant native bulbines as they come into flower.

 jackwar@home.netspeed.com.au