There’s a two-in-one sushi omakase and yakitori bar in a heritage building, a new home for a beloved seafood pop-up, and a convenience store with affordable onigiri and sandos.
Melbourne’s love affair with Japanese food is far from new, but it’s been anextra–exceptional year for new openings. From oden to udon, the depth and breadth of the cuisine’s representation has perhaps never been more exciting. Recently, seven newcomers have entered the arena, specialising in katsu, yakitori and much more.
Katsumo, Glen Huntly
Chef Jaejun Kim, who previously worked at Carlton’s two-hatted Kazuki’s, has struck out on his own to launch a homey new eatery all about tonkatsu, the Japanese pork cutlet.
There are six different katsu choices – from the signature pork loin, to a mozzarella-stuffed version, to chicken breast – served either with cabbage salad and pickles, or in a meal with rice, miso soup and a seasonal side. Vegetables are sourced through Natoora.
Must-try: Premium, pink-hued pork-loin katsu – only a handful of servings is available daily.
1103 Glen Huntly Road, Glen Huntly, katsumo.com.au
Sushi Sho and Naru Yakitori, CBD
In a heritage-listed two-storey building on Little Bourke Street, hospitality group Helix – which runs global brands such as Kajiken in Melbourne – has opened two new restaurants.
On the first floor is Sushi Sho, a $268-a-head special-occasion omakase diner that evolved from a pop-up at the Jasper Hotel, where the team sold lavish take-home omakase boxes.
The best seats in the house are at the curved counter, where chefs masterfully slice and hand-serve 10 sushi courses a sitting, as well as a dozen-odd other theatrical dishes featuring wagyu, foie gras and other upmarket ingredients. Japanese whisky and sake are also a focus.
On street level, through an arched doorway, yakitori bar Naru feels a world away from its upstairs sibling. It’s livelier and less fancy, splashed with dark wood panelling.
As the name suggests, things on sticks are the star of the show, with dozens of charcoal-fired skewers to choose from, alongside house-made dipping sauces. A vast selection of chicken cuts go from ordinary to offal, with hearts and livers coming from Aurum Poultry Co’s cockerels. Among the most popular skewers: Japanese A5 wagyu and ox tongue.
At lunch, go for teishoku set meals and donburi (rice bowls) levelled up with wagyu.
Must-try: Signature dry-aged kingfish nigiri (Naru); kangaroo skewer marinated in shio koji (Sushi Sho).
369 Little Bourke Street, Melbourne, sushisho.com.au, naruyakitori.com.au
Sachi, CBD
At long last, ex-Kisume sushi chef Reki Reinantha has a permanent home for hisHawthorn-born, seafood-focused restaurant devoted to chirashi-don: expertly constructed bowls of sashimi atop vinegar-cured sushi rice.
The $35 signature satisfies with six types of seafood, but the new $125 “pinnacle bowl” luxes it up with toro (fatty tuna belly), sea urchin, scampi and salmon roe.
Beyond the dons, expect a few set menus heroing seafood dry-aged in-house – with sake pairing options – to savour in a room with design channelling “Tokyo after sunset”.
Must-try: Marlin hamburg, a charcoal-grilled fish patty with onion relish over rice.
179 Queen Street, Melbourne, sachidon.com
Atsu, Carlton
Leonie Upstairs is no more. In its place, owner Kantaro Okada (279, Le Bajo Milkbar, Hareruya Pantry) has unveiled a katsu-dedicated diner with Sachi’s Reki Reinantha.
The beautiful sake-bar space has barely changed, but the menu is vastly different. Headlining are donburi crowned with a dashi-infused omelette and your choice of katsu: Otway pork scotch, Bannockburn chicken Maryland and New Zealand king salmon.
Also find a variety of kushikatsu (panko-crumbed, deep-fried skewers) and zingy highballs with fresh citrus. Plus, Reinantha is launching a katsu omakase soon.
Must-try: Beef striploin gyukatsu don, $25 for Atsu’s Monday “steak night”.
Level 1, 15-17 Lincoln Square South, Carlton, instagram.com/atsu.melb
Maji Pantry, Collingwood
Beneath a lofty office building on Langridge Street, this friendly konbini, or Japanese convenience store, is a new northside go-to for quick, easy lunching.
That’s much to do with the affordable price point. Made-to-order onigiri (filled rice balls) start at $7 and range from kimchi and pork, to teriyaki salmon. Sandos include the $12 tamago loaded with egg and creamy, mustardy mayo, plus a pork katsu option.
Meanwhile, owner Lucy Lim describes her banana bread hojicha latte as “nostalgic and surprising”.
Must-try: Ebi (prawn) katsu sando, with a sauce that deliciously balances chilli and citrus.
Ground Floor, 51 Langridge Street, Collingwood, instagram.com/maji_melbourne
Chowon, Kew
Trading for lunch and dinner seven days a week – with a Japanese menu that runs the gamut – new timber-clad neighbourhood eatery Chowon is a win for the inner east. It’s by chef-owners Changu Park and Jihwan Lee, who both have fine-dining backgrounds.
Weekday lunch specials mean teishoku sets and warming bowls of udon from $19. The regular offering starts strong with sushi and sashimi, including on shareable platters, and progresses to katsu in many forms, from pork tenderloin to cheese-filled.
Must-try: Mackerel maki, the sushi rolls filled with vinegary pickled fish.
6 Cotham Road, Kew, chowonmelbourne.com
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
