What kind of kebab shop doesn’t open at night or weekends? That would be Cedar, a community-minded cafe that sells Lebanese wraps, many of them plant-based and packed with salads and slaws.

Owner Josh Ireland, a former private chef to the Rolling Stones and U2, starts with marinated chicken or beef, fluffy, herb-strewn falafels or kofta, made from red lentils and Egyptian dried mint, then bulks them out with tabhouli, pickles and chilli, finished with a hit of garlicky toum or tangy pickled mango sauce. Don’t leave it too late – the operation wraps up by 7pm.