You’ll see the crowds before you see the signage for Hoa Hung Tofu, run by Kevin Ho, who, displaced by the Vietnam War, spent most of his childhood in a Hong Kong immigration camp before arriving in Australia aged 15.
Today, his tofu graces menus across Sydney, but here at Ho’s second canary-yellow shop (the original is in Belmore) you can buy it fresh, pressed into firm squares, fried or (the reason for those queues) as tau hu nuoc duong, quivering, soft-set tofu served with enough ginger syrup to drown in.
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David Matthews is a food writer and editor, and co-editor of The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide 2025.
