There are also 16 studios on the upper and ground floors of the main building overlooking the main pool and the Indian Ocean beyond, and seven beachfront suites with separate living rooms and bathtubs opening onto private gardens. Twenty villas with private pools are under construction during my stay.
Food + drink
There aren’t any restaurants nearby, so thankfully the food is outstanding. Much of the produce is from Cap Karoso’s three-hectare farm a few minutes up the road, where guests are encouraged to visit and where farming training programs will soon be introduced for locals.
Relaxed outdoor dining.
The open-air Beach Club restaurant and bar, set on the beachfront and headed up by French executive chef Antoine LeVacon, offers shared Mediterranean-style dishes – whole grilled fish caught that day, platters of handmade pasta, pizzas cooked in their Acunto pizza oven – and Indonesian classics. This is also the perfect place to topple onto a lounge chair, post-ocean swim, with one of their elegantly crafted cocktails – perhaps the sandalwood negroni with coconut oil gin. At their fine-dining long table restaurant Julang, set at the top of the property, guest chefs from around the world stay for three to six-week residencies and create innovative menus with ingredients from the farm.
Out + about
A 10-minute drive away is Weekuri Lagoon, where an unforgettable morning can be spent diving into turquoise waters. A kampung village visit is a must, where the island’s traditional pointed houses gather around monolithic stone graves, and where you can learn about Sumba’s indigenous Marapu belief system.
Turquoise waters.
Also on offer are tours to a local ikat weaving village, waterfall visits, hikes, picnics and cooking classes, while stand-up paddleboards, surfboards, kayaks, snorkels and electric bikes can be borrowed from the activities centre. A kids club and babysitting service are also available.
The verdict
While Cap Karoso’s French beach club vibe may seem slightly out of step with where Sumba is currently, it offers understated luxury and a light-footed approach that will hopefully set the bar for thoughtful, sustainability-focused development to come.
Essentials
Rooms from $US300 ($469) a night in low season (Feb 15 to April 5, and October 1 to December 20) and $US400 a night in high season. Rates include breakfast, but beware the additional 10 per cent service charge and 10 per cent tax. Karoso Beach, Southwest Sumba, ph: +62 811-386-260. See capkaroso.com
Our score out of five
★★★★½
Highlight
Cap Karoso’s engagement with local culture, including the weekly talks on Sumbanese culture and education-focused outings.
Lowlight
The music in the public spaces was mostly deep house, which can be disconcerting over muesli at 8am.
Nina Karnikowski stayed with assistance from Cap Karoso.
