It’s been 25 years, thousands of tiered floral dresses and a billion-dollar valuation, since Australia’s most successful luxury fashion label, Zimmermann, opened its first store in the CBD of its home town, Sydney.
More than 80 boutique launches later, you would think that co-founder and creative director Nicky Zimmermann could sit back and enjoy her success, as a new flagship store opens at Westfield. Instead, she’s sitting on her hands, to stop herself from showing customers the silk organza ruffles on a dress or scalloped lace trim on a blouse.
“The difference between then and now is that 25 years ago I was probably behind the register,” Zimmermann says.
“I worked at Sportsgirl in retail when I was at design school. I love everything about this business. You have to.”
A love of business paid off in 2024, when US private equity group Advent International acquired Zimmermann, valuing the business at more than $US1 billion ($1.43 billion). Last year Zimmermann recorded sales of $645.7 million in the 12 months to June 30.
The love of creativity paid off with design studios in Sydney and Paris, and a regular slot at Paris Fashion Week, where Zimmermann will stage its seventh show next month.
“I have two ways of thinking about it,” Zimmermann says. “One, don’t think about it because it’s too overwhelming. Or go in classic Aussie and do the job. I prefer the latter.”
What classic Aussie looks like has changed in 25 years. Back then sexy swimwear and flirty summer pieces were true baby blue. There’s still swimwear in Zimmermann’s new home, but it hangs near $895 leather slides and dresses that leave little change from $4000.
It’s an upgrade that works internationally, with the Sydney store opening, and a renovation of the Armadale outpost in Melbourne, following Zimmermann boutiques springing up in Cancun, Boston and Zurich. Zimmermann is convinced that it works here too, as long as you look beyond the price tag.
“Every category that we do with the brand I am looking to improve,” she says. “It’s not about price jumping. It’s about delivering more creativity … more special elements and touches to the design to make the customer love what they buy.
“You want people to fall in love with what you’ve made and see what’s gone into it. It’s not like going into a commercial store. Every detail has been thought through.”
Studio McQualter has collaborated with Zimmermann since that first Sydney CBD store in The Strand, making sure that their latest 347-square-metre store is unique.
While other luxury brands look the same in London, New York or Rome, each Zimmermann store is an eclectic assortment of commissioned art, vintage furniture and found objects.
“One collection is never the same as the other, so why should the stores?” Zimmermann says. “People deserve more than a blueprint design rollout.
“This is the essence of us. As an Australian brand we just want to bring our best here. Our customers deserve it.”
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