Get in the car, roll down the windows and drive south. Let the sea breeze flow in as you track down the escarpment, snake along Sea Cliff Bridge, pull into Coledale and join the line at Rosie’s Fish & Chips.

Behind the counter, Ben Sinfield slips fillets of flathead into yeasted batter aerated with Principle beer and soda water, then drops it into shimmering beef tallow. The coating puffs and crackles, hardening into an amber crust. In the next fryer, the chips – peeled and cut from the boxes of potatoes piled up outside – go in for a second dunk.

The package is wrapped in paper, there’s lemon, dill-flecked tartare and Sarson’s malt vinegar to cut the fat, and as you tear it open and take that first crunching bite you think to yourself: this is summer.