Sliced Wagyu sirloin… with burnt garlic, porcini butter and sesame seeds. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Hotate… pan-seared scallops with a cashew-jalapeno emulsion and dill oil. Photo: Wendy Johnson

King prawns in a crispy tempura batter and served with a dashi broth. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Tiramisu… created with Japanese yuzu, providing a fragrant flavour. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Oysters… with citrusy, acidic finger lime pearls. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Poached chicken breast… with miso butter, soft rounds of confit leeks and pickled mushrooms. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Miso black cod… with Yuzu beurre blanc foam, miso, lime and lkura. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Warm edamame… with anchovies, lemon, chilli and parmesan. Photo: Wendy Johnson

“It’s wafu all the way at new Clover in the city, and the concept is exciting to explore… so exciting our group of foodie fans went back for a feed two weekends in a row,” writes dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON.

So, what’s “wafu”? It’s the adaptation of Japanese flavours and techniques into different cuisines, in this case Italian. Don’t be deterred. It takes knowledge and skill to execute cross-cultural ideas and Clover Wafu Italian nails it. 

Here’s an example: warm edamame with anchovies, lemon, chilli and parmesan ($7). They’re addicting.

Located under the Sebel Hotel, in London Circuit, Clover had only been open 12 days on our first visit. We struggled with ordering because we wanted everything on the menu. 

Sharing is easy at Clover and while we focused on the a la carte menu, also on offer is a tasting menu ($95 each) and a premium degustation ($115 each).

Superior fresh oysters were joyous with citrusy, acidic finger lime pearls. Creamy, and at the right temperature, the oysters enjoyed a combo of bonito extract (for umami flavour) and leek oil (which we found a tad sweet; $35 for six).

Also from the primi section was fresh focaccia ($9, 3 pieces) with whipped ricotta, Manuka honey and dill oil – another example of Clover’s skills at balancing ingredients. 

A stunning-looking dish was the Hotate, pan-seared, succulent scallops ($24, three pieces) with a sensational cashew-jalapeno emulsion and more tasty dill oil. A true feast for the eyes. 

Next up were succulent, grilled king prawns, in a crispy, super light tempura batter and served with a heavenly, heart-warming dashi broth ($23, three prawns). 

We couldn’t fault any of the mains. The poached chicken breast was soft and succulent ($36), and wonderful with miso butter, soft rounds of confit leeks, a tasty jus and pickled mushrooms. 

Equally sensational was the Wagyu sirloin with burnt garlic, porcini butter and sesame seeds, already sliced for easy serving (MBS6+ and $62 for 200 grams). Wow, wow, wow.

Everyone loved the miso black cod with Yuzu beurre blanc foam, miso, lime and lkura (the caviar worshipped in Japanese cuisine). It was a delicate, memorable dish ($48). The insalata was bright with apple dressing ($16).

The dessert was delizioso and another shining example of wafu. The cool, creamy tiramisu was created with Japanese yuzu, providing a distinct, fragrant flavour ($15). Pretty, colourful micro edible flowers were perfectly placed on top.

A beverage and snack menu is available from 11am to 10pm … great for those attending the Canberra Theatre, just across the road. Clover’s interior is warm and comfortable and the staff caring and passionate. When we first arrived, the music was loud and not conducive to a leisurely lunch. It was quickly changed on request.