Including a railway station gathering spot, a community cafe in lush surrounds and a deli giving spanakopita the toastie treatment.
As Melbourne’s inner-city swarms with sandwich shops, enterprising operators are identifying niches in the suburbs, where they’re bringing a slice of our sanger culture to underserved pockets.
From Warrandyte to Niddrie to Ripponlea, this edition of Sandwich Watch – a column dedicated to the essential Melbourne sangers, rolls, subs and jaffles you need to know about – has a trio of new suburban spots to try, and what to order at each.
Field Day, Warrandyte
Warning: this cool new community cafe – in the green oasis that is Warrandyte – might make you want a tree change. Just up from the river, it’s warmed by the morning sun and the easygoing hospitality of owners Alisa Barnes and Lewis Lotherington. Local micro-bakery Sourdo supplies outstanding croissants and bread (for sangers and to take home), while other baked goods are made in-house. Coffee Supreme is the house blend, but guest roasters are on rotation.
Star sandwich: Mortadella baguette ($16). The base is a jaw-achingly chewy (that’s a compliment) Sourdo baguette, long fermented to give it an airy interior. Then comes a few robust slices of mortadella, all rich and fatty. A swipe of stracciatella adds creaminess. And, despite the one-two punch of house-made pistachio pesto and panko-pistachio crumb (aka “panko-grattato”), it’s not overwhelmingly nutty. NB: the baguettes are not available on Sundays.
2a Webb Street, Warrandyte, instagram.com/fieldday.warrandyte
Charlie’s Deli, Niddrie
Pumping tunes bring the vibe as much as larger-than-life co-owner Joey Sleiman at this new sandwich deli on a north-west shopping strip, a few doors down from sibling cafe Mister Hoffman. It’s named like every second Melbourne sanger shop, but Charlie’s holds its own in a crowded market. Most punters are after the steak frites sandwich, filled with wagyu rib-eye and curly fries. And for dessert? Chonky choc-chip cookies, or acai.
Star sandwich: Spanakopita melt ($18, pictured above right). What this toastie take on Greek spinach pie lacks in traditional filo pastry, it more than makes up for in flavour. Golden-crusted light rye encases feta double trouble, both Persian and Danish, which ooze out of the melt’s cross-section. In the mix: baby spinach, braised leek and onion, and enough dill to help herb it up. House-made “Chilli Lips” dip is a spicy, smoky reprieve from the cheese.
81 Hoffmans Road, Niddrie, charliesniddrie.com.au
Rippers, Ripponlea
For years, Vanessa Langby walked past the quaint cottage next to Ripponlea Station thinking, “Someone should do something there.” Possibly once a tearoom for train workers, the place has now been turned by Langby into a commuter coffee saviour that’s also a sandwich stop, after-school soft serve hangout and early evening burger joint with cheery outdoor seating. “We make our own strawberry coulis for the shakes, we love French fries, but we make our own seasoning. It’s real food but fast and fun.”
Star sandwich: Salad sandwich ($15). Multigrain sourdough from Cobb Lane is piled with shredded cos, sliced beetroot, grated carrot and herby mayo. Add Swiss cheese if you like. “And the bread is buttered: butter makes a sandwich better,” says Langby. “It’s comforting, like something a grandma would make.” Sangers to-go are in the fridge but if you’re eating in, the team will make one fresh.
3 Glen Eira Avenue, Ripponlea, rippers3185.com.au
This is the latest instalment of Sandwich Watch, a column dedicated to the Melbourne sandwiches you need to know about.
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