“Tex-Mex was huge around the time we opened bills in 1993,” Bill Granger wrote in his 2020 cookbook Australian Food. “Tinned chipotles were flavour of the month, and Navajo blankets were being dragged down every fashionable catwalk. This was in the days before we worried about cultural appropriation, and we were living in a Santa Fe fantasy world.”

These sweetcorn fritters with roast tomatoes, bacon and avocado salsa were Granger’s nod to that, but they outlived the phase and are still on the menu. With its combination of crunch and big flavours, this was his favourite breakfast dish.