From a “killer” sandwich at a Sydney wine bar to Victoria’s long lunch destination of dreams, Firedoor’s Lennox Hastie shares his favourite food and drink finds.
It’s been 10 years since UK-born chef Lennox Hastie opened his two-hatted Sydney restaurant Firedoor, the 2023 SMH Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year. Now he brings his earth, water and fire charm to Tasting Australia, curating the menu for the Elemental Dining Series — making this his third appearance at South Australia’s popular culinary festival, which is happening now until May 11.
A five-year stint at current World’s 50 Best number two restaurant Asador Etxebarri in Spain led to him opening the Basque-inspired Surry Hills wine bar, Gildas, in 2022. Recently, he bought out his business partner to become sole owner of Firedoor.
Hastie took some time out to share his eating in and eating out favourites at home and in San Sebastian, the Spanish city he says inspired his famously flame-licked style of cooking at Firedoor.
EATING IN
My signature dish and go-to at home
It’s grilled fish — barramundi with oil, lemon and a simple salad.
Guilty pleasure
I am sucker for cold custard. I will consume it straight from the fridge with a spoon.
The kitchen wisdom I cling to
I always say cook the food you want to eat — it sounds stupidly obvious but it’s everything. You have to make yourself happy first. You have to choose the ingredients you want and there’s nothing worse than cooking something you don’t love. I am also definitely guilty of being the chef who uses every pot and pan in the kitchen at home, but I’d say clean as you go. That said, if I cook, my wife cleans up.
EATING OUT
My favourite hometown restaurant
I look for places that are individual owner operated. In Surry Hills, Sang by Mabasa is a beautiful small restaurant run by a mum and dad duo, while their son and daughter work the floor. I can’t go past their kimchi or shallot pancake.
My favourite local cafe, bar and takeaway
I love AP Bakery — it’s just up the road from us, and because you can go to the rooftop, it makes the perfect escape in the city. I can’t go past their Aleppo pepper and Asiago cheese scroll.
When it comes to a local bar, it’s Bar Copains. It’s got a killer whiting sandwich on the menu. I also love a martini, I’m a straight shooter in that department, but also love a good wine by the glass if I want to try something I haven’t before.
There’s a hole-in-the-wall Chinese dumpling spot in Cremorne called Fang Dumpling House. It’s where we go for a quick takeaway.
Favourite restaurant experience in Australia
A long lunch at Tedesca Osteria in Red Hill in Victoria. It’s the whole package — the fire, the garden, the rhythm of the kitchen, it’s relaxed warm and welcoming. Chef Brigitte Hafner has an incredible love of ingredients that she wants to share. We ate the grilled duck, and she made the legs into a cassoulet with green beans. We dined there last year and are still talking about it.
When in Melbourne
I love to eat at Fitzroy wine bar Napier Quarter. It’s a firm favourite — incredible, understated and delicious. The anchovy on toast is great any time of the day.
I always love Embla – it’s not the new kid on the block but it gently hums to its own tune and Dave Verheul is an understated brilliant chef. His cooking is super sharp, seasonal and on point — it’s a great bar and restaurant. Any of the raw beef or raw vegetable dishes with fermented pepper or chilli wins me over every time.
I’ve been to Caretaker’s Cottage bar a few times. It’s a cracker — the atmosphere, the size, the welcome and its accomplished list of cocktails.
I love coffee and tea and hit them hard. When in Melbourne, it’s Market Lane for a double espresso.
ON THE ROAD
Favourite food city
My heart always goes back to San Sebastian in Spain. I went there as a young chef in 2004 to check it out and find some work, and spent five years there. I was hooked, it’s an incredible traditional culinary place, where they respect food culture and the ingredients but also a place where there is a huge amount of creativity. You can eat well on every single level from the bars to high-end dining.
Elkano is a traditional seaside grill where the food is incredibly done. Order a whole grilled turbot, baby squid and hake “throats” so beautifully done with so much flavour. Bar Nestor is a classic spot to visit. They make tortillas twice a day and make a beautiful tomato salad and a great beef chop – think steak, fire and salt and nothing else.
Casa Camara it’s a house that drops into the sea, it’s spectacular. The dining room has a hole that runs directly into the sea and they pull up massive lobster pots and you choose your own lobster and they cook it for you there and then.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay, I recommend the Lasala Plaza Hotel in the old town, or the classic Maria Cristina – a luxury hotel with a good bar.
Tasting Australiais on in South Australia until May 11.
Jane Rocca is a regular contributor to Sunday Life Magazine, Executive Style, The Age EG, columnist and features writer at Domain Review, Domain Living’s Personal Space page. She is a published author of four books.Connect via Twitter or email.
