A moody Italian restaurant with a casual rooftop bar one level up.
Gambino, a sleek restaurant and bar that stretches over two levels, stands out in Glen Waverley with its arancini and squid ink linguine. Chef Adrian Li (La Madonna) adds his unorthodox spin to many dishes, but there are still crowd-favourites such as calamari fritti, and sourdough focaccia to be loaded with antipasti.
The most head-turning dish might be the bistecca al pepe, combining two unlikely influences: steak diane and xiao long bao dumplings. Eye fillet comes to the table topped with a single raviolo and nothing else on the plate. But once the pasta is pierced, peppery mushroom sauce erupts.
There’s also tuna and prawn crudo with Calabrian chilli; spicy vodka pasta using shell-shaped conchiglie; and cavolo nero risotto topped with garlic prawns.
The moody dining room of blue velvet, dark marble tabletops and rose-gold accents seats 80. One level up, Gambino’s rooftop bar is brighter and more casual, with pizzas, mini meatball sandwiches and a couple of pastas.
Emma Breheny – Emma is Good Food’s Melbourne eating out and restaurant editor.
