The 200-gram New York striploin. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Seafood linguine. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Halloumi fries. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Fried brussels sprouts. Photo: Wendy Johnson

Salmon. Photo: Wendy Johnson

It was a day for a drive, and dining reviewer WENDY JOHNSON landed in historic Gundaroo for a pub-grub experience at Loose Goat Bistro.

The cosy Loose Goat Bistro is housed in the famous Gundaroo Inn, established in 1872. It claims to hold the oldest liquor licence in NSW.

We stepped back in time when we entered, with history everywhere we turned. The inn is divided into different rooms. The wood floors are wonderfully worn, and the kitchen is tucked behind a tin feature wall with a rectangle window built in for food passing. We switched to an inside table given the intense heat.

I had peeked at the menu before setting out from the capital with my heart set on one of two dishes – lamb backstrap or kangaroo salad. The Loose Goat Bistro had neither available on the day because they were in the midst of switching to a new menu. You win some. You lose some. 

The wine list is dedicated to well-known, local wineries, including Gundog Estate. We enjoyed their 2024 rose ($40), a premium, cool-climate drop with a vibrant colour, which we poured into the nicely chilled glasses provided at the long bar. The wine menu also features labels from Tallagandra Hill Winery and Joshua’s Fault Wines.

The menu has the usual suspects, such as fish ‘n’ chips, burgers, schnitzel and dishes for kids.

We shared starters and the halloumi fries hit the spot ($17). The crumb was crunchy, the cheese a great texture and the deep red Romesco sauce perfect for dipping. 

The fried brussels sprouts ($15), while not overcooked, could have been better caramelised for a deeper flavour (and colour). Still, they went down the hatch.

From the mains came the 200-gram New York striploin, cooked as ordered and served on a round of golden mash with veggies ($43). 

The salmon skin could have been crispier ($30). The fish came with a fresh wedge of lemon and crispy potatoes, asparagus and fresh salad rounded matters out. 

My seafood linguine featured a generous amount of grated cheese, which I wasn’t expecting since it wasn’t mentioned on the menu ($30). I would have asked for it to be left off had I known. The dish was missing the promised warrigal greens, but I enjoyed the mussels, prawns, calamari and chilli. 

The beer-battered fish ($27) was moist, and the homemade tartare sauce was a nice addition.

The Loose Goat Bistro is half an hour from Canberra. The music was fantastic and our experience, charming. It’s great to see the bistro supporting local producers and farmers.

Afterwards, we had fun exploring Sally Paskings Store, established in a small timber cottage in 1886, and today full of kitchen, home décor and fashion items.