A small-batch tofu maker is pushing perceptions of the vegetarian staple into new territory, using McDonald’s, low-waste cooking and more for inspiration.
“I’m not a massive fan of tofu,” says Sava Goto. It’s a disarming statement from someone who’s devoted the last five years to making fresh tofu through her brand, Tofu Shoten. “I’m just a Japanese person,” she adds.
Goto’s craving for the tofu she grew up with in Japan – silkier and richer than others – set her on a path of obsession. A self-taught cook, she started out in 2020 by making blocks of tofu that she sold from Brunswick cafe Kines. Now her standalone shop (also in Brunswick) can lay claim to one of the most creative vegetarian offerings among Melbourne’s casual daytime venues.
Goto’s freshly made tofu powers Tofu Shoten’s crunchy tofu nuggets, rotating desserts (including ice-cream sandwiches and riffs on tiramisu), and drinks such as mango lassi.
“Probably I have too many ideas,” Goto says. “I’ve got to stop myself.”
With a tagline of “tofu for home and snacks for now”, Tofu Shoten still sells tofu for people to cook with, but the snacks (all sold takeaway) put soybeans in a whole new light.
Goto’s chewy tofu doughnuts sprang from wanting to reduce kitchen waste, something that drives much of the menu. Making oboru tofu, a creamy unmoulded style, left behind small scrappy bits of tofu that Goto didn’t want to throw away. The best-selling doughnuts were born.
A conversation among staff about McDonald’s chicken nuggets and the best sauce to dunk them in led to the tofu nuggets. After reverse engineering the fast-food chain’s sweet-and-sour sauce using mangoes left over from the shop’s mango lassi, Goto realised she just needed a vehicle for it. The nuggets, made with semi-firm tofu, will continue with different sauces once mango season ends.
Buying fruit and vegetables that are in-season is important to Goto, and she adapts her menu often.
Tofu Shoten is part of a wave of super-specialised Japanese eateries in Melbourne focused on doing one product well, whether it’s coffee at Cafe Tomi, kakigori (shaved ice) at Sebastian, or onigiri at 279.
“Lots of people still think tofu is bland: no texture, no taste,” Goto says. “Education is part of my project, I guess.”
As well as semi-firm, silken and fried tofu, the retail range includes styles rarely seen here such as the tofu balls called ganmodoki, which are seasoned with spring onions, mushroom and other vegetables, designed to be simmered in soups or hotpot. Goto’s creativity has even extended to creating char siu tofu: it’s fried then braised in soy sauce, leek, ginger, garlic and star anise, so it’s ready to add to noodles or rice.
Right now, a “Soy Cap” dessert is on, with soy-based kuzumochi (a wobbly Japanese dessert like panna cotta), coffee-flavoured soy milk cream and chocolate biscuit crumb.
As an avid cook, Goto loves when people seek out her tofu and share what they plan to make with it. “Customers educate me as well. Different cultures use tofu in different ways. It’s really fun to learn.”
Open Wed-Mon 11am-5pm (closed Tuesday)
6b Saxon Street, Brunswick, instagram.com/tofushoten
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Emma Breheny – Emma is Good Food’s Melbourne eating out and restaurant editor.
